XRAY - Model racing cars

hi , not been on here for a while soo please bare with me !!
I used to do tc a few years back and have had various cars etc , went back to offroad 18 months ago and have recently started doing tc again on carpet ..

I used to have a t3 '12 ( and loved it ) when they first came out , but sold that to fund my offroad racing ( race an xb4 !! ) .

As i said i recently started racing tc on carpet , and have a t3'11 , it seems to go well enough , but have decided to get a t4'14 , are there many parts that can be used on the t4 off the t3'11 ? like diff's , shafts , shocks , belts , hubs etc ..

and i'm geussing like any revolution the t4'14 is even better than a t3'11 ??

cheers shaun

Try this I have just made the same move and have loads of T3-2011 spares which will now be my wet car http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/showfi ... le_id=9653

are there any alternative springs worth getting ( normaly use 2.8 / 2.6 or hpi pink / silver , geuss these won't fit the t4 ? ) for low / medium grip carpet is there ?

any other bits worth getting ? keep reading its worth getting the bumper re-enforcement peice .. anything else ?

cheers shaun

Hi Shaun

I use the following option parts

301213 UPPER GRAPHITE HOLDER FOR BUMPER
302190 GRAPHITE FRONT LOWER ARM PLATE 1.6MM (2)
302169 FRONT SUSPENSION ARM - GRAPHITE - 1-HOLE
303169 REAR SUSPENSION ARM - GRAPHITE - 1-HOLE
303190 GRAPHITE REAR LOWER ARM PLATE 1.6MM (2)
303440 ALU ANTI-ROLL BAR COLLAR (2)
303493 T4 ANTI-ROLL BAR REAR 1.3 MM
305330 ECS DRIVE SHAFT 52MM WITH 2MM PINS
305434 LOW FRICTION KEVLAR DRIVE BELT FRONT 3 x 513 MM
305447 LOW FRICTION KEVLAR DRIVE BELT REAR 3 x 189 MM
306516-O T4 ALU TOP DECK MOUNT - ORANGE
308031-O ALU XRAY SHOCK SPRING RETAINING COLLAR
308264 XRAY 4S SPRING-SET PROGRESSIVE C=2.5-2.8 (2)
308276 XRAY 4S SPRIN G-SET C=2.7 (2)

spare parts which are good to have:

302253 COMPOSITE STEERING BLOCK - HARD - V2
302363 COMPOSITE C-HUB RIGHT - 4° DEG. - MEDIUM
302364 COMPOSITE C-HUB LEFT - 4° DEG. - MEDIUM
304900 XRAY GEAR DIFFERENTIAL - SET
305135 COMPOSITE SOLID AXLE DRIVESHAFT ADAPTERS (2)
305241 DRIVE SHAFT REPLACEMENT PLASTIC CAP 3.5 MM (4)

thanks alex for your help , can't wait to get my t4'14 , something to build over xmas ...

cheers again

thanks for the help , got all the parts now cars all built , albeit a bit of eledtric stuff to do !!

just wondering , on low/med grip carpet ( i doesn't get really low grip / mostly medium ) do you run the top deck post with the 4 layshaft screws , or just the post and no layshaft screws ? im geussing , just the post , soo it flexes more at the rear ? ,

and then put the layshaft screws in , remove the post screw , when the grips higher ?

sorry for all the silly questions

you have made the right move shaun,some that had the t3 11/12 have all said it was a better car than the t4 (this is at club level),all i know as i only had a t4 is that the 14 is definately easier to drive and easier to set up and faster,im a lap faster just changing car
you wont go far wrong with this set up,on carpet or tarmac and on sorex of course,the rear was a little loose for my driving style so i widened the rear track using all four 0.5 inserts to give 3.2 rear toe
but its a very good starting point,i used 400 oil as i didnt have anything lower at the time ,it has a lot more steering than the previous cars

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/xray/se ... s20131026/

Ran the t4'14 for the first time tonight at a club meeting , car was really nice , easyer to drive than the t3 , but it was suffering with a bit of push going into corners and also pushing coming out of them , apart from that pretty nice apparently i was faster with the t4 aswell ( got told that by a fellow racer ) and it seemed more consistent ..

As i only wanted a bit more going in and more going out , i decided to change the rear toe from 3degree's to 2.5 degrees , which helped to a certain point , but it felt a bit more agressive , had to drive with a bit more care etc !!..

Would it be better to run with the 3degree toe and the 1.3 rear roll bar ?? is that a finer adjustment ?

cheers shaun

An oversteering car is always quicker than an understeering car.
You will need to post a setup for a full answer, standing front shock up more may help with the understeer

And/or, laying the the rear shocks down one hole.

At Newbury I have found that although I get better steering with 2.5 rear toe, it can make the car more difficult to drive so the lap times end up being very similar.

cheers for your reply's , soo would you suggest , dropping the rear shocks down one hole and keeping it at 2.5degrees ? or going back to 3degrees ??

cheers

did you use the inserts on the ff/fr to give arm sweep? as that will give better in and out

Well ran it today at chippenham ( resonably big carpet track ) done ok it quallies , but still struggled to get it to turn in on entry and it still pushed on exit , tried lots of things like ..

arm sweep , fitted a 1.3 rear roll bar , tried 2.5 and 2.5-2.8 front springs and ran it with 2.5 degree rear toe , no flex screws , ran different shells ( mazda and bd nardo ) none of it seemed to work , but apart from it understeering on entry , it was managable and qualified in the back of the A-final ..

The final results was a differnet matter !! due to the plank on the sticks !!

Any other suggestions

cheers shaun

edit :: have tried a link to my set up , but don't know how to install it