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XRAY - Model racing cars • View topic - Shock popping off

XRAY - Model racing cars

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 Post subject: Shock popping off
PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 22:20:51 
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 23:13:47 
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2005 23:14:05 
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Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 11:22:56
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Location: Trencin, Slovakia
From your post I understand you will have problem either in the plastic ball joint or the pivot ball. For beginning exchange the pivot ball from othe other arm. If the same shock will still pop-up on the other pivot ball, you know where is the problem and what you need to exchange. 8)
The composite set of shock parts is available only as complete set - click on the part number to see details.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 00:37:43 
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 Post subject: Alternative to shock bottom
PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 10:35:23 
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Location: Oxfordshire, UK
The shock bottom parts are only available as part of the nylon frame.

BUT - nobody from XRay, as far as I know, has ever suggested using part number instead! These are 5.8mm ball joints - that are nearly identical to the shock bottoms - and they thread easier. They come in packs of 8 and are cheaper than the frame.

Surely I am not the only person who has figured this out!


Last edited by projectnmt on Tue Mar 01, 2005 19:02:53, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 16:45:31 
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 17:37:30 
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 19:00:15 
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2005 23:29:53 
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2005 01:28:02 
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Hi

i have used a M3 x 12 button head but if i were you i would use a slightly longer screw so it threads into the arm better

if you can find a screw with the button head bigger than the inside diameter of the shock bottom so it wont fit through then you wont need a washer

chip


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2005 09:51:26 
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Location: Norway
I’ve also had the problem of the rear shocks popping off on impact.

I did try solving it with a button head screw and a washer. But it was to much hassle when I wanted to change springs and I also prefer to use threads in plastic as little as possible due to the wear.

My solution was to press the ball into the cup with the “flare” end first. That way you will have the side of the shock end with the largest hole facing backwards.

This will make it harder for the ball to pop out if the shock moves towards the rear on an impact.
It will also make it easier for the ball to pop out if the shock moves towards the front on an impact. But since there is an suspension arm in the way, the shock won’t go anywhere.

Hope this makes sense to you guys…


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2005 10:07:00 
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2005 13:04:57 
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Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2004 11:50:41
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Location: Germany Bayern
Hi
you can also use the 5,8mm balls from the Racer. You have to srew than the shock to the arm, but it´s bullet proof!
Pivot Ball 5.8 mm Double Bevel Shoulders Part Nr. 307464
Hope his could helf you.
ALex


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