XRAY - Model racing cars

1. 2 out of 4 wheel hex's striped very easy.
2. if you have the front belt loose it rubs on the plastic nuts to stop the battery hitting the belt.
3. the front stock towers are obstrucked be the body posts.
4. the front droop screws are directly undter the camber links so you have too use a 2mm ball end.
5. My Reedy 10.5 turn will not fit my YR pinions and the Trinity D3.5 just does.
6. the steering link from the servo using a Sanwa SDX - 701 rubs on the top deck in the default position.
7. All 4 arms only have 1 hole for the shocks I race at 3 tracks and 2 are rubbers and 1 is foam the rear tires hit the bottom of the shock.
8. changing a spur gear is an event with having to remove the layshaft bulkhead
9. No T4 14 setup book.
10. tring to figure out roll centers, anti squat, and rear toe is a nightmare.
11. excessive play in arms forward and back I had to squeeze the mounting blocks together


Anyone else had had any of these issues

I just thought of 2 more things thats enoying.

I have to remove the c-hubs just to take the diff out

and the rear uprights to remove the rear diff.

Im not saying the car is not good it handles fantastic but its a pain too work on


The motor has a shorter shaft then some others but it fits fine in my tc6

I have too reverse the pinions to get them on via the side I'm sure the Xray thin pinions fit perfectly but they are very expensive

I keep my belts as loose as possible to reduce drag

to get the diffs out heres what i do,remove center camberlink on one side,undo the top shock mount on the same side,undo top bulkheads and move to one side,lift out diff,put back in reverse,i cant see why you need to take the c hubs and uprights off.
alot of what you describe above relates to allmost all the cars on the market

Regarding the servo issue, i had the same problem using the Savox 1251 low profile servo. The steering link would catch the top deck when using the kit servo saver using top middle hole. but if you lower the servo in the mount then that should rectify your issue. you know those picking cards you get in the kit bags when new? 4 of those together are exactly 1.0mm so put the 4 on top of the servo and push the servo up in the mount and tighten the screws. pull the cards out and the servo will sit 1.0mm lower and still not touch the chassis.

one of my wheels hex was stripped right out of the bag, with shavings in the gap and all - kindly replaced FOC by the importer in the quickest manner. Same thing with only 3 shock foams in the box... good job from the importer (TM models in switzerland)

on my lower deck there is a place where the varnish probably wasn't fully cured.... there's a small imperfection there with a little "hole" in the varnish. no biggie, but surprising from xray...

Orion LP servo creates the same issue - turnbuckle hits the upper deck. Will do the cardboard trick, but it's one more direction the servo can move in, if you space it out of the carbon mount...

is it me or is the black ano on the 'buckles more fragile than before?!?

last but not least - there's a tight spot somewhere in the transmission, likely at the center shaft, I can feel it but I can't spot it... shakedown is raceday, tomorrow... we'll see if it goes away.

Still, can't wait to race her!

Paul