XRAY - Model racing cars

Last Sunday I raced for the first time with a T4 2013. So far I was using a T3 2011. My set up was very close to the basic one apart from minor changes. However the car was much more difficult to drive than my old T3. It felt like it had too much steering and the rear was a bit loose at the entry and in the middle of the corner. When I was on throttle the car was perfect.

This is the set-up sheet I used for this race.
xform/index.php?act=print&ID=553&setup=t4

Any suggestions?

I'd switch to a Speed6 shell as first port of call, I've tried the LTCR a few times and never found a good balance.

I'd also change the rear springs to 2.5 linear.

After that I'd remove the ackerman shim and lay the front shocks down a hole.

try going to 4mm bumpsteer,that could be the reason its snappy

Speed6 bodyshell
Drop the rear inner camber link from 2mm to 1mm or even 0
Remove the 1mm shim from the ackermann.
Don't be afraid to increase rear toe to 3.5deg if you can afford to lose a little speed.

What were your tyres like?

I wouldn't add bump steer, it increases mid corner steering and as your car is loose at that point I doubt it will help.

Skiddins

Damian,

When lowering the rear inner camber link, the roll centre is going to be raised. Which means that it will get closer to the centre of gravity and the rear will roll less. According to the xray set up book this will increase car’s responsiveness and I believe this maynot be what I need.

Personally, I was thinking of trying mazda6, 3000 oil in the diff and maybe anti dive at the front but I have a feeling that these changes may not be enough.

Increasing rear toe to 3.5 may also be a good idea.

I'm going to start with kit and slowly work my way back to T4'13

Hi guys... i would agree with a few things mentioned above.
As Dale has said increasing rear spring rate to make the car more balanced as when we first ran those rear springs the back end was so loose. so 2.5 or 2.7 would be a good step.
Also as Skiddins says inner camber links shims play a massive part. These are the things that we change the most during a race night/weekend. we might start with 1-1.5mm on the front and 0-0.5 on the rear and as grip/temps increase then we will add shims.
Being on the UK team Reece was lucky to have his car built on the Thursday after release and ran it on Friday 4th October. ran to kit settings apart from a few things that we knew worked on the '13 and the car felt great!!
still have some work to do with the rear as its not quite as i want it but we are 8 runs in now and will get another test session done before EWS next week.

As for Anti dive set your ride height to give the anti dive effect so 5.2 front and 5.5-5.6 rear

Another thing to think about is where your steering link is connected on the servo saver. is your steering too aggressive? I use the top hole of the servo saver but going to the next hole down and also moving the mount on the steering bridge to the right steering arm will give a smoother steering action

Chris (AKA secret pit man)

To make the car less loose on entry and mid corner, may I suggest that you try the following:

Softer front spring/harder rear spring. Preferably not a progressive spring in the rear.

Harder rear shock oil

Front shocks more laid down

Harder rear anti-roll bar

Raise the outer point of the front upper link to raise the roll center

Alex, notice you recommend not using a progressive in the rear if the cars loose.

Why is that, do you not find the progressives not give better rear grip?