XRAY - Model racing cars

Hello to all!

I was wondering if anyone would have a good starting set up for the upcoming nitro challenge at the dirt?? I'm really excited to race this car, it was a pleasure to build and the car just looks sweet!! Any help would be awesome! Gene, are you out there?!? Thanks!!

I would say if you choose 1 of these 3 setups you will be fine.

Gene Maxy - http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/showfi ... le_id=1891
Joor Standard - http://www.teamxray.net/downloads/XB8_J ... 121304.pdf
Mann Dirt - Setup is below, this is his setup from The Dirt and looking at what he has done, I would go on a limb to say this would be the easier of the setups to wheel around the track, however that doesn't always equal the fastest

Front
Shocks: 1.4 pistons 450Wt bottom, middle hole, top top row, 2nd hole
out, light blue springs, 7mm or so of spacers
Diff: 5K no orings
Toe: .5's to the inside, 1 degree toe out
Camber: 1.5 degrees neg
Kickup: 1's down
Roll center: .5's up in tower, 0's behind
Anti Sway bar: 2.6 mm
Caster: 1's up for a total of 21 degrees
Ackerman: middle hole (i think)
Short upper arm. (i heard that Wheeler runs a long front arm, this
could help settle the car if it feels nervous)

Center: 7K
Gearing 13/46
Brake bias 70/30 front
Engine: OS VZB for club racing, might go with the JP MOd for the big
race
Clutch: AL shoes, 1.0 springs

Rear:
Shocks: 1.4 pistons 400Wt bottom, middle hole, top top row, inside,
light blue springs, 8mm or so of spacers
Diff: 2K no orings
Toe: 1's to the inside, 2-4 block
Anti-Squat: .5's down
Anti Sway bar: stock
Camber links Longest, 1 hole from bottom on the inside on the tower.
(played with camber links today a
Hubs: centered front to rear, low holes

Front end dremeled for full shock travel, Rear downtravel limited just
a bit, never measured downtravel

All oils are Xray.

Tires: Proline CrimeFighters M2, stock foam, outside row of pins
clipped, Proline Thick CA
Wheels: Proline Velos
Wing: Proline
Body: Proline Crowd Pleazer and 2.0 with Proline Flipside graphics on
our practice bodies

Hi David,

Thank you very much for such a fast response! I didn't think you would include which body and internal decals to run, but that's cool!! Also, thank you for the front end mod to the castor blocks idea. I'm fairly new to 1/8 and it is so helpful to have a specific XB8 forum to help everyone out.

Thanks and hope to see you at the nitro challenge!

No problem, I can't remember who it was, I want to say Z-Man that came up with cutting the caster block instead of the arms. I do a combination of both. If I break an arm it is real quick to recut, I just don't think it is safe to remove the material on the caster block where the cresent guard begins, it is very thin there.

Does the Proline Crowd Pleazer body for the Mugen MBX5 fit the Xray? If not which Proline Body will work. Thanks.

the XRAY bodyshell Is the Proline crowdpleazer for the MBX5

Posted this in the broken parts thread but it belongs in both of these.

It isn't exactly spoken very clearly about how the upper arms should be positioned in relation to the kickup. So I would like to clear this up for everyone. Justin Mann and I debated over which setting was correct and I believe he won so here is the data that should give the least amount of bind to the upper arm through the compression stroke, I have found this to help keep everything functioning normally and the life of the turnbuckle is extended.

Kickup: Front Upper | Rear Upper
1down: 1up | .5up
1down: .5up | 0
1down: 0 | .5down
1down: .5down | 1down

So this is just an example, here are the rule of thumbs. Justin Mann and I built this up on the premise that 0 kickup placed the lower and upper hingepins were parallel using all 0 bushings. We also did testing on which caused the arms to be the most free (this is what we debated on, thanks Justin)

KICKUP | RULE FOR FRONT UPPER BUSHING POSITIONS
1up (3.0) | front bushing should be .5 lower than rear
.5up (3.5) | front bushing should be .5 lower than rear or same
0 (4) | front bushing should be same as rear
.5down (4.5) | front bushing should be .5 higher then rear or same
1down (5) | front bushing should be .5 higher then rear

Hope this helps some.

It should be fun if you could get Josh Wheeler to write on the forum, if he wants to share his experience and setups it should be great. And maybe a european topdriver that could came with suggestions to good setups on european tracks, since the us ones arent allways ideal to us in europe.

Thanks in advance