XRAY - Model racing cars

Looking to buy a T3 2012 for club racing stock Touring Car. My background is in Mini and Off Road racing.

I've read through the multiple "newbie" threads on here and have come away with good information and learning lots as I'm going.

Lots of "upgrades" talk and what not but I don't think I need any upgrades for the car yet. Biggest upgrade for me might be working on my driving skill. I'll be content watching the pack from the back and getting lapped for the first half of the season until my skills improve somewhat.

I've been reading (and been told) that the XRay is one of the most (if not the most) durable cars in the hands of an inexperienced TC driver. Other choices were the Tamiya and Associated, but I've learned from past experiences that I shouldn't settle and go for the best, even starting out.

As such, what I haven't seen a lot of is what are the most fragile pieces on the car that I should look at getting extras of? I broke a few Mini parts on the M05 first few weeks out so I'm learning to keep extra parts on hand..

Seen some talk of a Hudy setup station as well.. will a noob like myself notice the effect of small changes made to the geometry of suspension, etc.?

Much thanks in advance,

I just found a T3R locally for sale for about a third of what a new T3 2012 will run me.

Would it worth buying that and spending a few months getting used to it before upgrading to possibly a 2013 or maybe later a 2014?

Are there drastic handling differences?

Hi Cloberator

You are indeed right, an XRAY is very robust but if you are a beginner then a few parts would be a wise move as no doubt you will have some crashes - which will get heavier as you get faster

Hudy setup station - I think it is not a question of will you notice minor changes - probably not at this stage - but you need to make sure your car is setup properly in the first place! Yes they are expensive but apart from buying an XRAY the Hudy station was the best investment I made when I started. If you cannot afford it at the moment then get yourself a cheap droop gauge (with blocks), ride height gauge and camber gauge. If one setting gets knocked out of position by a crash it will be your camber setting.

Spare parts
You are quite right, at this stage concentrate on driving not upgrading. The 012 is a great car out of the box, handling well on most tracks for a beginner on kit settings. Everyone will have their own tales to tell and their own preferences, but for me...

(please note that part #s are from EU kit)

1.Front (305432) and rear (305446) belts - these wear and will eventually need renewing; although we are talking months here not weeks (unless you are unlucky and get a small stone chip caught in the belt&pulley)

2. Spare blades (305421) for the rear drive shafts (again these wear)

3. Not necessary immediately but a set of out-drives for the front spool (305135) and for the rear diff (304970 - not sure if these are the kit out-drivers or an upgrade); again the out-drives wear.

4.Spur gear. The teeth on these can be knadgered by a loose pinion so you need one; although of course you may well ultimately have several to give you flexibility on gear ratios. Best to have a discussion with your club mates on what would be an appropriate FDR for your track and motor and go from there.

5. No comments on gear diff as I have only recently transferred from a ball diff and have no idea on longevity - someone else will!

6. A pack of membranes (308081) and foam inserts (308091) for the shocks; again a number of months before you will need to replace.

7. Grub screws mentioned further below but build up some spare screws. I tend to replace more than any, the small screws for the bottom deck 903306 and the top deck screws 902306

8. Bearings – generally last some time; like old soldiers they fade away rather than die. I keep new ones every size in my box but as long as you check them regularly you can replace as and when you feel one going or pull and re-oil.


Breakages - Rear.
In the past 5 years of XRAY driving I cannot recall anything at the rear failing apart from a wheel bearing exploding and taking out the rear upright. I have unopened packs of suspension arms and pins that have never been needed..

Uprights 303352 I think spare uprights are a good idea as they can be damaged by a wayward drive-shaft. Not sided (with 0 camber) so one will do.

Breakages - front.
Front axle is where you want to pay attention to especially if indoors.

Steering block (302253). I have only ever had one (max. two) break on me but I have over the years occasionally stripped the screw thread for the camber link, necessitating a replacement. They are not sided so one will do.

Drive shafts. These can be bent and indeed last weekend I spotted that one of mine was (only the second one ever I think). Also the pins can come loose (perennial XRAY thread!), loosing a pin, damaging the end of the drive shaft or the steering block.
Personally I keep one complete assembly(including the drive axle) in the spares box ready to quickly fit during a race meeting should one go. But as a minimum I suggest you have
• Drive shaft (they come in packs of 2) 305323 (50mm) or 305324 (52mm)
• Pins; stock is 980210 which are square ended and 2* 9.8mm. Personally I would go for 305392 which are 2*10mm (round ends) but with flat spots. Alternatively get 980210 and grind the flat spots yourself. Also plenty of third party options on this.
• Grub screws (pack of 10) 901302 3*2.5mm – they will do your pinions too.
If you do not need a ready to run drive shaft assembly then you can omit
• Coupling trunnion (pack of 1) 3052312. I do not think I have ever replaced one of these.
• Drive axle (pack of 1) 305341 Ditto

C-Hubs again I think I have had one go over the 5 years, so oyur choice. They are sided so yowould need two.

HTH No doubt plenty of more valid suggestions from others

Yellowshark thanks for the tips.

I ended up getting the T3R. I figure if I really like TC I'll get a 2013 or 2014 in the future, the startup costs aren't as bad with the T3R.

Still have to pick up a motor, batteries. We run on carpet, seems like the Jaco Blues are the tires of choice around here, so I'll have to get a set of those as well.

I bought a LTC body last night.. can't wait.

T3R good choice I am sure, I started with a T1R . My comments would still be the same although part nos might differ in places.

Best of luck.

Oh is that the LTC or LTCR? If the latter it will be very pointy and if you do struggle to to control the back end you will probaly find a Mazda Speed 6 easier.