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XRAY - Model racing cars • View topic - 808E buiild

XRAY - Model racing cars

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 Post subject: 808E buiild
PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 20:52:44 
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Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 06:30:18
Posts: 21
Location: California
I have started building my 808E and I don't have anyway of measuring the piston hole size. The kit came with a selection of one 10 hole (which I'm assuming is 1.1 hole size), and two 8 hole pistons so I'm not sure if they are 1.2, 1.3, or 1.4. I'm using the silica oils that came with the kit to start out in the shocks and diffs, but I'd like to know what I should set my rebound at for starting out?


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 Post subject: Re: 808E buiild
PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 14:57:51 
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Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 15:17:09
Posts: 311
Location: Frankfurt, Germany
Hello,

the pistons have a number on their top which is the x in 1.xmm. The rebound setting refers to your aims. For me, it's always very high rebound (about 90%) in dusty and/or flat conitions and low rebound (about 20%) in bumpy and/or high grip conditions.


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 Post subject: Re: 808E buiild
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 02:50:53 
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Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 06:30:18
Posts: 21
Location: California
Just got it all together today, batteries charged, and finished set-up with my Hudy set-up kit. Straight and smooth! At least in my grass, I cant’ wait until I can put it on a track and see my buggy shine. I sent my lid off to get painted, because I’m no painter, and I wanted something off the hook.
I haven’t set my rebound, what’s a good measurement to start off on for FRONT/REAR?





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 Post subject: Re: 808E buiild
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 20:21:13 
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Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 06:30:18
Posts: 21
Location: California
What are the most common parts to fail on the XB808E so I can stock up on them?
Also, If I need to replace the front shock tower brace from damage, would it be best to replace it with the optional aluminum shock tower or stick with the graphite?


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 Post subject: Re: 808E buiild
PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 03:20:32 
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Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 06:30:18
Posts: 21
Location: California
New Lid:





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 Post subject: Re: 808E buiild
PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 13:57:18 
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Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 22:26:09
Posts: 94
Location: Ohio
You motor wires should be soldered flat not upright, arc them forwards, not back.

Sensor wire needs routed forward not back. Tie it to your motor wires loosely. It's going to get caught on the rear of the car and ripped out when the chassis flexes. Happened all the time on my car.

Is that RX8 bolted down? Big no no. The RX8 is the most fragile ESC on the market. I have a pile of broken ones. Use 1/4" thick Kyosho gyro mounting silicone goo tape. Clean with brakeclean 1st. If the tape fails, use epoxy on both sides of the tape to hold it to the tray.

That goo tape is expensive, so I reuse it with epoxy.

I also grind the sidepod locknuts down, then use locktight instead, so that they don't hit the bottom of the tray or motor when the chassis or tray flexes.


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