XRAY - Model racing cars

Hi, i keep losing the bottom steering arm screw, even after changing the arm. Why would this happen & what can i do to stop it ?
Thanks for your help

put some thread lock on it that will stop it falling out

Thanks Jack - not only threadlocked but i put nailvarnish over the screw aswell !
It id only on the left wheel. What could be the cause ?

oh okay, could also try some super glue. it will just be a bit more difficult to get out if needed to.

Check and make sure that you have the right size top hat bush (302291 - comes as a long+short pair) fitted (the long one in the lower position) - if you have a short one in, it will tend to bind and/or unscrew itself. Also check for any hairline cracking in the steering block. If the threads are stripped in the steering block, loctite or superglue does not really work as a permanent fix - replace the block, and do not overtighten the screws.

HTH

We need to know exactly which screw you are talking about.

Can you use threadlock on a metal thread or is it meant for plastic?

Can't believe it - I lost another last night ! it was in the fourth heat, so I had survived 3 races before it happened, and I checked the screws before the race to amke sure they were tight enough.

Thanks for the help guys. Am I correct in saying I should be using the long top hat ? I've been using the short one.

Also, I did use threadlock, but i think it is really only for metal.

Earlier in the T3 thread, I read that someone recommends alu steering blocks when racing on carpet. is this a general thing, do they work better than the plastic ones ? If I use them, will threadlocking the screw in the alu block help it stay in place ?

This is really annoying me now, I've lost three of these screws and top hats in 3 weeks ! Thanks for your help with this.

It's definitely long top-hat in the bottom, short in the top. Have a look at the exploded view on pg. 18 of the build manual. The screw is meant to tighten onto the bush, NOT the C-Hub (i.e the bush should be flush with the bottom face). If you have a short one in the bottom, the screw bottoms on the C-Hub, and works its way loose as the steering operates (and the steering will bind / be stiff - check that it is free moving with the servo arm disconnected).
[been there done it ]


The difference in bush length is not immediately obvious while you are scratching around in the tray of small parts !

The alu steering blocks work fine, but I found screw loosening is more of a problem on them !

PS keep a spare set of bushes in your box - if you have a serious crash, you can end up loosing one

PPS

I would NOT recommend threadlock on metal-to-plastic joints, only metal-to-metal. The only places I use it is on the driveshaft grub screws (I use superglue actually) and the bulkhead to chassis countersunk screws

Thanks for your help guys - some replacements have just arrived in the post so I'll strip the blocks right down and take a closer look.
Happy racing !!