XRAY - Model racing cars

A thread in the bush's that go into the c-hubs to stop the thread stripping out of the steering block or maybe a steel insert in the steering block itself like you do in the 1/8th offroad buggies. The same in the rear would be good too so that the threads don't get stripped out.

My only complainjt with any of the Xray parts is the metal spool outdrives.
I believe they need to be slightly bigger to make contact with almost the entire blade. At the moment only half the blade makes contact which means they were out quicker and are more easily damaged during high speed impacts.

Skiddins

Changes requested:

1. The bolt that goes through the top of the c-hub (302364) into the steering block (302252) quickly becomes loose and wheel/c-hub sideways wobble becomes evident. I think that the earlier post above, which is copied below, is discussing a solution to this problem, but I am not sure.

"A thread in the bush's that go into the c-hubs to stop the thread stripping out of the steering block or maybe a steel insert in the steering block itself like you do in the 1/8th offroad buggies. The same in the rear would be good too so that the threads don't get stripped out."

Note that my daughter now uses the alloy c-hubs and steering blocks, which has solved this problem, but I did not want to spend the extra dollars for a set of alloy c-hubs and steering blocks for myself.

2. Longer slots for the motor position adjustment so that I can fit bigger pinions in. Note that at present I am using a 78T 48p spur, with a 32T pinion, FDR = 4.14. This is ok for stock (17.5T brushless). However, if my youngest daughter starts racing 21.5T brushless, she will probably need lower ratios. I think that the biggest pinion I can fit is 34T with a 78T spur.

3. Much bigger lipo battery back stops, both on the outside and on the inside near the belt. I had to make custom backstops to stop my daughters losing batteries. Note that our local track is an old basketball court with black plastic irrigation pipe on the track border. Hence, hitting the pipe can dislodge a battery with the standard lipo back stops.

4. Include the graphite battery holder in the kit.

5. Include alloy shocks in the kit. I find the alloy shocks easy to fill and set, but the plastic shocks more difficult. I have not tried any other shocks to compare the performance. Note that I only use 'fixed hole' pistons as I find the adjustable versions too tricky to use.

You currently make orange roll centre shims for the upper links in 1 & 2mm sizes, it would be nice if they were also available in 0.5mm so I then have everything I need instead of having to rely on using old Schumacher shims to fit.

Skiddins

I was seriously disappointed when I opened my $500.00+ box and realized this baby is not optomized for LIPO or does it even come with any kind of LIPO or battery strap. "Wrap it with fiber tape", yea, that's what everyone should or want to do. Get with the times XRay, this was one of the most talked about chassis in my neck of the woods and I would almost rather have my money back due to this and other items I will list below.


In my eyes everyone who has bought one should be sent the battery strap you SHOW in the picture in the instructions. Ridiculous a person puts it all together and in the end you see a picture of a carbon strap that should have been in the kit, but instead you flaunt it at us with "OPTIONAL" and now you just need to tape your battery in.



Pro:
Instructions are easy, bag part numbers make it simple to build
Durable parts
Easy to adjust
Feels like your holding a well built part and drives the same
Diff action is smooth

Con:
Non LIPO chassis or even a LIPO strap. This should be a common sense thing guys... It's almost 2012...get with the times.
Pay alot for very little. Seems most of the money spent to obtain one went towards the R&D
No alloy shocks BIG BIG MUST HAVE
Running offset wheels has become a clearance challenge
Body mount stops that are included are a poor design.

It's definetly a LIPO-Chassis - i don't see your point
taping batteries is pretty much international race standard with all companies cars - the battery strip may tweak your car as Skiddins said before

It's your choice to pay 200 more to get a tamiya with alloy shocks or a yokomo with ECS on kit -both won't supply you with a battery strap

if you want that all for the dollar get the new Team Magic with the Strap and AlloyShock- it looks like the XRAY without ORANGE -- the BIGBIG Con with that is the way too flexy Chassis and Topdeck


I love my T3 2012

2.3, 2.5, 2.7, 2.9 springs

hello,

i would like to see a 2wd off-road car with xray gear diff in !

what i personaly most like to drive is on-road 1/10.

and the 2012 is great ! a have not used any upgrades, and it works perfect !

but it seems in our country the group of drivers driving off-road is 3x the size then the group that drives on-road.

i have an s......... off-road car also, it drives well, but i think xray can make a better one.

i hope you guys do that for me ! and the rest of the world

best regards
lovan rc-shop
belgium

Hello everybody.

My opinion about the T3 2012

THINGS I LIKE:
- Great low center of gravity
- Overall good traction and consistence
- Roll center adjustment
- Setup book
- Orange color (my favourite haha)
- ...

THING I WOULD CHANGE:
- Solution for the gear diff to don't leak out the oil in some cases
- More space between front belt and antena's post, the motor's pinion and inner servo post.
- The steering link servo attach to the center piece of steering (like Tamiya)
- Double camber link (like Awesomatix and F1 car )
- More control for lipo battery position
- More control for adjust the front toe. For example with shims (like in the rear). Or different steering link associated to a degrees (0º, 1º, 1.5º...). In my opinion, this is one of the more difficult part for close adjustment.
- More lightweight and cheap front ecs driveshafts

For the moment...

Regards.

Nobody's perfect, so i think Xray is the best offer today, because it's ready to race, not just to run, but to race

I'm just wondering... why i didn't get set up book with my brand new 2012?

in 2012 edition there is no more set up book and ,if i remember right, gear chart :>
you can download it:

Hope it helps :>

I recived it with my 2011 version, just asking, but thanks Stanley

'Would also like';

Some extra slots for cell tape so that the battery pack can have it's position changed by a few mm forward or backward.

Make the cell tape slots 1mm wider so it can take the slightly wider tape that some compnaies make. (my 17mm cell tape creases slightly where it passes through the chassis)
I have widened the holes myself but it isn't that pretty

Some additional holes to move Battery holders to allow mounting of the smaller short lipo's. I have seen a lot of people moving to these due to the heavier weight the bigger capacity lipos now carry.

Some additional holes to mount also the servo left or right would be a great feature.. I am seeing people move the servo's to the right hand side of the car and flip the belts to use the small lipos and achieve a good balance..

instead of more holes for the servo just put the speedo up on that right side!