SORRY, BUT APPARENTLY MEANS THAT YOU ARE NOT SURE YOURSELF?
If it says add oil, I would add oil
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IT WERE DEFINITELY GEARDIFFS. TALKED TO THE GUYS MYSELF. SAW SOME OF THEM DO IT. RUN IN THE GEARDIFF WITH A SUBSTANCE IN IT AS DESCRIBED ABOVE AND LET IT ROTATE FOR A WHILE TO MAKE IT SMOOTHER. BUT MAYBE XRAY GUYS DON'T DO THAT OR THE DIFF IS OF SUCH QUALITY THAT IT IS NOT NECESSARY. TYPICAL THAT I HEAR OF IT WITH MANY BRANDS OF CARS.
I built my diff, filled with oil and haven't had to refill with oil in since first built... No running in necessary
- in the manual it says:"To protect and seal edges of graphite parts, sand edges smooth and then apply CA glue."
What thickness of CA?
ANything that's pretty thin and will run around the edgesApplying with a brush or cotton wool on a stick or right out of the package?
Cotton buds, or Q-tips as the Americans call them. But fist sand, then apply some and let it run around the edge while you're holding it.When the edges are sanded is the measuring of the height still correct? With the ride hide gauge you measure on the edge of the chassisplate. And there is no edge anymore.
After applying the CA do something else, for instance wet sanding or so?
See above. I don't do any 'wet' sanding etc as that would seal some moisture in which you don't want.IS THE MEASURING OF THE RIDE HEIGT STILL CORRECT AFTER SANDING THE EDGES. I MEAN THE EDGE IS GONE. THE READING COULD GIVE A HIGHER RIDE HEIGT VALUE. IN CASE OF USING A STEPLESS RIDE HEIGHT GAUGE. BECAUSE YOU PLACE IT AGAINST THE EDGE, THAT ISN'T THERE ANYMORE. SO THE GAUGE GOES FURTHER UNDER THE CHASSISPLATE CONSEQUENTLY GIVING A HIGHER READING.
SO LET THE CA DRIP ON THE EDGE AND THEN RUB WITH A Q-TIP OR SO? I ASK THIS BECAUSE IN THE PAST I DIDN'T DO THAT AT ALL WITH ANY OF THE CARS I HAD.
You arte only going to round the edges slightly, so it should make virtually no difference to the ride height measurment at all, literaly fractions of a mm.
I sand first to round things off a bit, then drip the CA on and let it run around the edges, let it dry, then reapeat until you have it the way you want it.
I found that running around the edges with a Sharpie pen before using the first coat of CA glue helps make it black.
I use a Q-tip to put some CA in the countersunk holes in the chassis (to make them stronger and help stop the screw from pulling through in a crash.
Anything bigger than 86t will stick through the bottom of the chassis. I have seen down as far as 72t. Minimum tooth count 100, max is 112SORRY, BUT I DON'T UNDERSTAND. YOU SAY 86T WIL STICK THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF THE CHASSIS. ON THE OTHER HAND YOU SAY MINIMUM TOOTH COUNT IS 100 MAX IS 112. IS THAT 100T AND 112T? IF SO THAT WOULD BE MUCH BIGGER DAN THE MAX OF 86T YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT. BUT MAYBE I AM COMPLETELY OF TRACK HERE. PLEASE HELP. I AM CONFUSED HERER BECAUSE MOD RACERS OFTEN USE BIGGER SPURS.
THE MANUAL SAYS ONLY 84T AND 87T. WHAT BRAND WIL FIT FOR XRAY T'3 '12 WHEN WANTING OTHER SIZES? FOR INSTANCE 78T OR 81T OR SO?
The tooth count is when you add the number of teeth on the spur with the number on the pinion. EG. with an 86t spur the smallest pinion that would fit would be a 14t (100t count) the largest would be 26t (112 count).
This is all using 48dp.
- better to build the shocks as adjustable or not adjustable?
Non adjustableI hear sometimes that is not that easy to get the XRay-shocks exactly the same all four.
- are there parts that need polishing? For instance pivotballs, or others
I do polish the pivot balls slightly just to make sure they wont stick at allOTHER PARTS?
What other parts? I only do the shock pivot balls as I recall.