XRAY - Model racing cars

Xray really nailed it with this one.
In our track the car generates much more grip compared to the 2011 car (low traction big asphalt track).
The only gripe I have is with the pins of the drive shafts. Is it so difficult to provide pins with notches on them? Every T3 that I have had (2010, 2011 and now 2012) has the same problem. You have to always check for the screw that holds the pins in place since every once in a while one of them is loosened and there goes the pin (and this causes damage to other parts eg driveshafts, steering blocks, rear uprights etc)

You know, the plastic shocks I can expect but for the price I do want the engineering to be up to par and not have to hop the car up right out of the box. I'll never go Associated but I have to say, for the price, if price vs. product was all you looked at, the TC6 is a better deal.

I've had '07s for a few years now and the specs on the the T3 were to much to pass up. Then with the diff problem I had, I was very frustrated. Other than 38 vs. 34 the diffs are the same and I can promise you it wasn't user error. If they replace the diff or not I will still drive Xray but this situation has left a very bad taste in my mouth. If I had only picked the T3 kit off the shelf on either side of the one I did!

The engineering is without comparison, let's just hope the company doesn't get to big and focuses on pumping out kits rather than quality control.

Ok, till now I have driven my T2'009 for 14 month but I never had problems with the unflatened pins.

I would also see aluminum shocks. Or at least know if they will make a new version.
But till now I was runing quite good with the plastics. Even some guys tell me the alu version works better (more consistent due to better heat dessipation; better to set rebound).

Hi there,

I am going to go down the Xray path!
But not sure get the T3'11 or T3'12?
Please help!

Jack

Question about setting up the anti-roll bars:
I have a different in the rise of the lower arms on left and right when I push the opposite up.
In rear there is about 1mm difference in the rise of left and right side.
In front it work on one side but not on the other. I shortened on holder now it works better but still 2-3mm difference.
Question: Is it important that it works even?

Question about rebound of damper:
For a bumpy, tight and technical track better no rebound, correct?

My friend T3'11 with top deck look like 2012's

This will probably get deleted by an mod but in my opinion deffo the best option to get rid of sideways movement in the roll bar and super easy to fit collars. Without needing to take the roll bar off!