XRAY - Model racing cars

Will the front towers have the holes for mounting the 5th body post in the centre like the old T3'11?

No as 5th body post is not needed in electric cars, only in nitro

Does it come with a printed Version of the Set-up-Book?
On the Xrax page it says it comes with a printed T2 Version. In the downloadable Manual it's states it dos not come with a printed Version.

Maybe the Hudys can confirm on this

I agree with Skiddins, since starting using a 5th body post I've increased the lifetime of my bodyshells by nearly 50%. I race in doors and I'm still a relative novice and can't always get through a 5 minute race without at least one heavy shunt. Overtime this causes the wheel arches to crack - the 5th body post seems to support the body shell better stopping it from cracking so quickly.

I will be getting the 2012 when it comes out. Martin, do you have any other suggestions for pro-longing the life of the body shell? (and not crashing as much is not the answer for me ).

Don

no lightweight

Hello from France,

question for XRay Factory:

Do you plan to make an upgrade kit?
'11 => '12 like you made last year...

Au revoir.

Romuald

No, XRAY does not plan to make conversion set as all parts are available separately and every customer can choose which parts wants to updated.

So, I pre-ordered mine.
Let's hope for the Hudy guys that I am several seconds faster than with my T2'009

you will be!:D

The t3 12 comes with a new chassis and top deck. Are these softer or stiffer than the t3 11? thanks

Don[/quote]
+1 on the 5th body post, I have found it helps prevent the wheel arch from cracking, as it usally occurs when you roll over and smash the roof down, pushing the body shell down. The fifth post stops this.
Please dont tell us we dont need something that has been proven to prevent body shell damage, even with the use of shoo goo on the wheel arches you will never stop them cracking completly, but the fifth post helps ALOT.[/quote]


Miss that one too.

- No Set-up Book in the box like last year
- Steering link way to long for Kopropo 2413 low profile (doesn't fit with other servo either, and servo IS turned the right way)
- non-drilled closed ballcups on steering mount, very annoying when changing ackermann shim
- rear front 2-piece suspension holder left 1.5° inboard toe, right 0.5° (disassambled 10 times, no change- needed file- think its drilling in chassis)
- no free play of rear lower arm with 2 mm in front and 1mm back, works with o.5 mm in back or sanding. little less tight on front arms
- for carpet-box set-up you need to buy 0.5 or 1.5 mm shim as they are NOT in the box, for asphalt-box-setup you need to buy hop-up 2-piece front rear suspention holder --- so with just the box there is no box-setup possible
- no flat spot on drive-axle pin
- no rebound hole in shock-caps

+ old parts fit
+ existing bodies fit
+ wish my drifter was drifting that controlled (short roll out in dusty garage)

hitting carpet tomorrow, will let u know about performance

Out of interest can a few questions be answered for me:

1. Apart from rotating the servo are there any other differences to the main chassis?
2. apart from losing the quick roll centre mounts, are the front towers any different?
3. likewise, ois the rear shock tower any different?

4. WHY KEEP SELLING THE CAR WITH PLASTIC SHOCKS

I've already updated my t3'11 a fair bit, hence the questions