XRAY - Model racing cars

Hi everyone,

Brandon here, just wanted to start a thread about my new product line & share the passion I've put into my product..
As some or many of you may know the electric class is growing rapidly everyday, there are various companies that make electric conversions for multitude of vehicles, well what sets my product apart from the rest is my passion to be the best...

I'm pretty sure you've heard of motor mounts bending or how a motor can flex and chew up pinions & spurs, & the biggest pain is how you have to remove the whole center diff just to adjust the mesh. I race myself & understand the frustration, so I've come up with a design that is super strong, easy to work on and most important, will put you in a Elite level.

Please take some time to view the pictures I've attached & read the features of my design..

I hope to hear some feedback and if anyone needs to ask questions, you can either PM or email me at Bwong76@gmail.com

As you can see from this picture, the motor block is held in place with 1 screw, 2 screws can be used for extra security but is not needed..





OK, let me explain in detail why my slide & lock design is different from others..here are the benefits:

1: There are no gaps, motor block has full contact with motor mount..therefor motor will not budge, will not wear out through time, so you will have a perfect mesh always..

2: The face of the motor has full contact with the whole mounting system..

3: Very solid built, machined from Aircraft grade 7075 T7 aluminum, so it will stay solid, rigid & slop free unlike other mounts made from 6061 or cast aluminum.

4: Even though it is 10mm thick it weighs a little over 2oz, I've taken out unnecessary material to save as much weight as possible..

5: Has a built in 5x10mm bearing in the motor block for extra shaft support, less flex = better mesh & less stress on front motor bearing.

6: 1 screw lock design, when you tighten the top screw it puts pressure on the sliding contacts, so it somewhat unites the 2 parts into 1 solid mount, zero flex! Totally different from Losi/Kyosho





Here is a nice view of the front, I've chosen to hard anodize for durability & to match the color of selected vehicles..



The smooth sliding action with tight tolerance, as you can see the motor is on the edge and still looks parallel to the mount.

The keyhole opening on the front of the motor block for easy pinion installation & removal.



Top view, motor block out of mount.



Side view of the motor block..



The secured bearing design



Mounts have been shipped for those who ordered last week,
When you get your mount please examine, use/abuse, & most important love it I expect full feedback reviews from all of you..Thank you..

Once again thank you for your business & support...

Brandon

t1nm4n funny you should ask this question right now!

I just got done putting my E-808 together & checking the balance to make sure my figuring & placement come out to where I wanted it so I thout I would take some pictures while I was at it. I didnt think to take pictures when I checked it as a gas car but I did the same measurements with a 1/2 tank of fuel & niether measurments are with body.

Old(as gas car) measurments are with a stock chassis that was worn down to 2mm or less across the whole thing & a knife edge at the front & rear so those weight #s would actually be higher than what I recorded.New(as a E-car) measurements are with a brand new BCE chassis & it would weigh 30%+ more than the old worn chasis but, you'll get the idea of possable E-car balance.

I used 1/2 of my setup fixtures on 4 mail scales so it may not be NASA equipment but a 14g wheel wieght reads exactly 14g on all 4 scales.I will show you a picture of the corners & type the gas car weight under it so here goes.

Thes is the lay out & for your question on big mah batts you should be able to read 25c 6000 mah 4s polyquest & notice I have space to move the batt forward over 1/2" for more steering.




This is the weight of the fixtures & obviously their included in the pictured weight.But you would subtract them for total car weight.


Left rear & gas car weight was 850g


Right rear & gas was 840g


Left front & gas was 670g


Right front & gas was 660g

If you do the math you can see the balance can be kept almost the same as a stock gas version. I used a very heavy batt & the heavyer truggy motor but with the buggy motor & smaller mah batt you can come in under stock gas car weight but be able to move the weight forward or back to suit your driving. This was all done with rc monster parts but I told my buddy about this thread & he is ordering the Elite parts for his 808 & we'll be able to see the difference soon.