XRAY - Model racing cars

I leave anywhere from 0.2mm-0.6mm gap and i still have the original bearings as spare in the tool box after 6 months.
Changed them once for maintenance but kept them since they looked good.

Sometimes clutch bearings would eat up the crankshaft, so last season I glued both the bearings onto the crankshaft with strong, heat-resistant threadlock and created the needed play solely with the clutch bell (so the clutch bell slides on the bearings, and not the bearings on the crankshaft).

This has worked out great so far, so I thought I'd let you know. Crankshaft looks like new.

But the wear on the crankshaft is minimal...considering these engines don't last that long to consider this a problem.
How do you remove the bearings after this?
Don't they bind on the shaft and make life difficult?
Have you noticed considerably increased life on the bearings?

Yeah there's another problem, I can't get my engines to die, they just run and run... The crankshaft eating isn't usually a problem on the first 20-25 litres, but after that it used to get worse exponentially, sometimes down to 4.7mm.

Removal is easy with two flat-headed screwdrivers on either side of the bearing for equal pressure.
I didn't notice longer bearing life because I throw them out every 2 hours anyway to be on the safe side.

Flygio, the order is as follows:
1: Put a small shim onto the clutch nut
2: Apply very small amount of strong, heat-resistant threadlock (in my case Team Titan Red) onto the crankshaft where the lower clutch bearing goes, spread it around evenly.
3: Put lower clutch bearing on
4: Apply the threadlock to where the upper clutch bearing goes
5: Put on clutch bell
6: Put on upper clutch bearing
7: Put on the shims needed for about .3mm play,
8: Put on the screw with 3mm washer to hold everything and tighten
9: Pull the clutch bell forward, so the upper clutch bearing is tightly against the shims
10: Wait for threadlock to cure and voila, the bearings are tight on the crankshaft and the clutch bell can slide forth and back around .3mm

Lauri, Concept Coating is the magic word.