XRAY - Model racing cars

hello all just a quick question is the xb8 ec better then the xb8r and what are the differeance

also im from Australia and the ec only came out yesterday and i ordered one i pick it up today
cant wait my 1st rc car heard they are really good

anyone compare these to the MP777 as that was the other one i was looking at

any info welcomed thanks

I compared to the MP777 not in first hand experience but got to see both at the track and did some research. By far my choice went to the XB8 EC since it comes with all the things that are optional on the MP777 which cost an extra $300.

I feel that the EC is a better built choice with much more support, cheaper parts, great quality, more set up options, and best of all uses Hudy steel. If you havent ever owned a Hudy wrench then you wont understand the quality this buggy shares with the same manufacture.

I suggest the EC for sure but any choice with these high end kits isnt going to be a bad one. Just note that the EC has all 7075 aluminum parts included and the MP777 will cost you $300+ from King Headz which is an after market upgrade company in 7075 parts.

Guys at my track all run MP777 and made fun of me when I told them I was going Xray until they got to see it then realized it was a solid ride. They actually admitted to copying the instruction manual since its so good and tells you what each set up option does to the chacteristics of the car.

Thats the other thing as well. The directions are the best I have ever seen and so in dept in explanations that fr newbies like me it was priceless.

OH kool sounds like ive made the right choice then and yea only brought it for round the back yard i dont really want to race it or anything
thanks heaps for the help i pick it up after work today so i have a fun weekend infront of me

Hey whitey-
I've got the ace servos too-how did you get the ace horn to work for the throttle/brake? I couldn't see how the brake/throttle linkage would fit on there without making contact with the top of the servo-it looked like it would take a lot of grinding on the horn to make room. I used the kit futaba horn, which had a little slop in it, but with the screw tight seemed ok.
the steering servo was a tight fit too-which mounting blocks did you use and were you able to get it in there without the sides of the servo touching the mounting blocks?

Ok here you go:

I also used collars and fuel tube to adjust my front and rear brake since those finger collars get in the way and you cant really get to them to turn them anyway. The way I have it allows me to simply move the collar to adjust the brake tension front and rear. I have the fronts to where they drag but dont lock and the rears so they lock. This way I keep steering at full brake and can whip the cars back end around in a turn.

The other fuel tube on the inside of the brake linkage pushes the cam post back off the pads when not in use so there is no drag and my pads dont wear fast.

PS i also grinded the raised part of those linkage links so it would sit flush to the servo horn. I am talking about the plastic things the parralel linkages thread into that are above and below the servo horn.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_inf ... ts_id/3868
These are the shims needed to lift the horn. No more then 3 I would say and just enough to clear the servo body since you want a fair amount of splines on the servo gear.

Only must buy I can think of for the car is the 1 piece engine mount, you have to decide what engine your going to go with, but this will make life much easier. Its stiffens the chassis but you can also remove the engine without having to readjust the gear mesh.

So you have never had a nitro before and you are learning on a Nova?

Its all your cash but I really suggest learning on something much cheaper first time around. Not to mention you are buying an Xray to back yard bash already.

PS let me save you $100 USD on those thin walled pipes tunned for your engine and tell you they are trash. Well atleast the Werks pipe I bought lasted 2 days of light use and I think there is a tinny split to go along with the bent stinger and smashed underside.

Nova motors are said to work well with a JP3 pipe and my Werks motor shoudl work great with it as well. Actually when I called Ofna to ask about the Jammin pipes they said it was BS that the pipe isnt tunned to a particular motor that it should be the pipe tunned to the track. These Jammin pipes are said to be much stronger then the thin walled aluminum pipes and now I wasted $100 to figure that out and had to buy the $70 Jammin JP3.

Its possible that the other MFR's make better pipes but they all look the same and not nearly as heavy duty like the JP3.

oh why do u say that, Is learnin on a Nova harder or something?? and kk ill make sure to get that pipe
Then main reason i choice this car was i wanted to build one and they told me the mp777 was really hard to get parts for
And yea this well be my 1st nitro car lol i do have plans to race it but after i "back yard bash" it lol