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XRAY - Model racing cars • View topic - XB8EC diff assembly

XRAY - Model racing cars

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 Post subject: XB8EC diff assembly
PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 03:07:04 
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Joined: Sat Aug 04, 2007 04:22:27
Posts: 81
Location: SF bay, CA
When assembling the differentials on the EC, the instructions say after tightening the four screws, the measurement between the outside of each bearing should be between 32.15-32.30mm. I've been unable to get in that range, I get between 32.3-32.4, what does that mean? I've tightened the screws in the alternating pattern shown in the book, and I've tried re-doing it too, thinking maybe something didn't seat right. I don't think I can go any tighter without stripping something.
I've had problems with leaking and I'm trying to eliminate possible problems-so that's why I'm concerned. If the diff's weren't leaking, I wouldn't really be worried about it. :D


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 04:49:17 
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Joined: Fri Nov 10, 2006 06:18:49
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Location: Houston
If you get 32.3 then what's the problem? You are in the range.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 04:54:45 
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Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 16:06:48
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Location: Redlands, California
I thought mine were tight and they werent. I was also scared to turn them in more but there was about 1/4 turn more and that was made mine stop leaking.

Take a screw and thread it into the cup with out the ring gear so you can be sure and feel when it hits the bottom of the hole tapped in the cup.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 05:52:36 
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Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 18:28:15
Posts: 276
Location: Texas
I wouldn't pre tap it first, if you go till it bottoms out then you take a chance on stripping out the threads in the plastic when you install the ring or spur gear.

You only want the threads to be as deep as the screws and ring/spur gears.....less chance of stripping them IMO


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 06:49:55 
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Location: SF bay, CA


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 07:45:39 
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Location: Redlands, California


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 19:40:10 
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Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2004 16:17:01
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Location: Castle Rock, WA
I pre tapped all the 3mm sized plastic parts I could, diff cups, a-arms ect. Just measured out the total depth of the pre molded hole then backed off the tap cut by a couple mm's, marked the tap, and then went to town. Using a 3mm bottoming tap of course.

I dont think you could get the assembled diff length down to 32.15 from what it sounds like unles you sand the big end of the diff cup. From what the manual says, 32.3 is good. Personally I never checked that length when I assembled mine on the buggy and truggy. I just tapped the diff cups out, then put the diffs together.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 01:25:05 
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Location: Redlands, California


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 01:39:04 
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Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2007 03:57:43
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Location: Bath VA USA


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 01:43:44 
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 19:07:44 
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Location: RC America
You guys tap the holes?! That should extend the build time by a factor of 2 or 3 right, haha? Tapping is only to make it easier the first time around, but if you are going to do it every hole with a screw, then what's the point unless you have a tap?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 19:57:29 
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