XRAY - Model racing cars

Wow what a great car. Made all the Kyosho cheerleaders ask a bunch of questions which was pretty funny.

Ok first off I am pissed that my brand new werks pipe has the stinger bent back already after just one bad landing. I want to run the JP series pipe but am not sure if thats a great idea or which one to try. A guy at the track showed me the JP pipes have this support behind the stinger to prevent these bends from happening but also said there is no better pipe then the werks 2013 pipe for my B7 Pro .21 motor.

It still works perfect but I fear in the future its going to take a dive on me and bend back enough to cause a split in the pipe. I will run it until something happens but thought I should research options now. My other option is to try and fit that pipe guard on the side guard since I didnt have it on when this happened.

Also the pipe hanger came loose x2 but some new locktite and a strong turn of the wrench shoudl hold it now.

Any input on this matter would be great.


Now for how the car handled:

I wanted to go faster in the turns but found that the rear end was loosing grip and swinging out quite often. I have 7-5-5 diff set up right now so what should I try in different oils or set up?


I think other then that its going to be a matter of practice since I drove pretty slow but did stay on the track and catch up often to the fast guys who always crashed on the tripples. I did a double single and didnt jab the throttle and kept it smooth which seemed to fair better then they guys just running at everything full bore.

Just please give me some tips on these issues and I would really appreciate it.

PS this motor is stupid powerful and not even close to being race tuned and with the restrictor still more then enough power. I had the temps chillin' at 210 and it cleared all the track had to offer. This is where a more durable JP pipe would suit me just fine if thats my option in the event this thing continues to bend but not sure which pipe to get.

Indeed the Werks 2013 is one of the best pipes for power production. Even on on non-Werks engines. But they are fragile, which is unfortunate. IMVHO, a decent alternative wold be a hardcoated Dynamite 086 with a Werks Conical header in the length of your choice. I know the JP pipes are popular because of the billet stinger. But IME, they lack in the power production and fuel economy departments compared to other high quality pipes like the 2013, 053, 086, 063 etc. Not that they're bad mind you, but not as good as a Novarossi/RB/Werks/Mugen etc pipes.

regards

speed metal

True all the Nova based pipes make awesome power but if you try the JP3 I am sure you will like it. I run the B7 Pro as well and the JP3 is about as smooth as you are going to get.

Well I guess I will continue to run this pipe the way it is. There was no change in how it ran after the bent stinger so I hope it will get some more life before it dies.

I would rather find a way to protect it if its truely a better pipe then the others. I suppose I should jiffy rig that pipe protector to the side guards and it could help a bit.

The guys at the track said that this is very common to happen and dings to the pipe are just part of the hobby. Too bad they arent so soild like the JP pipes but they also said this is why there is more performance from them.


Gitsum your JP-3 pipe seems to work good? I can tell you there is tons of power to spare so if this pipe wont get its money worth of use I dont care if it does produce more power if it wont hold up. I would be best off with a JP-3 pipe that robs a bit of juice but lasts longer. With the red restrictor in this engine really was much faster then any tripple I would ever have to clear.


Any tips on how to tune the diffs differently?

I run both 2013 and the JP3. The 2013 will get you some insane power. The JP3 on the other hand has a smoother bottom end on take-off but overall the same amount of power. Giving you a more linear feel with the B7 Pro. As far as durability they all bent and give but the JP3 is hardcoated and I have yet to even scratch mine.

So what should I do then?

I wasnt aware that they bend and dent but froun talking to you guys and the guys at the track I guess its part of the game.

Should I just run the Werks pipe until it gets really bad then replace it for another?

I trust what you say since you know first hand but I have heard that the Werks pipes are best for their motors and its noticable. Your experience seems to be that they are pretty similar from what I am getting but please tell me more.

I run both usually run the JP3 on slick tracks...and the Werks 2013 where there is more traction. Both are great pipes just the JP3 is smoother all around and twice as durable. Hope this helps....

I think smoother may acutally be better for me since I find that with even the slightest throttle blip I will do a donut in the middle of the track. It was pretty hard to learn throttle control after coming from a race Revo where I had to squeeze every last ounce of power from it before each jump.

I think I am going to get the JP3 and have it on hand for back up and do like you are and have that extra bit of tune options depending on the track.

Thank you so much for your help. Your input is most valuable since you have both and use the same motor as me so I thank you again.

No problem....another thing that might help is I run the 14 tooth clutchbell on both my EC and XT8. That alone will take some of the bottom out and make it smoother out of the corners. The B7 Pro def has enough grunt to hit all the shortrun jumps with the 14 on....

Thats a good idea as well but I need more time with it to decide on that. I think the power was great its just that I never ran a buggy before and its totally different.

I have Expo on my React which will help with the trigger finger so I will play with that as well.

As far as the CB I really liked how it would easily power up for the straights and before big jumps. If I keep breaking the rear loose I will try that 14t CB and see how that helps. I dont think it was so much a power issue that I had but something like diff fluid or set up that I need to change. I would find that too sharp a turn would make me spin out but the out of the hole power with the stock set up seemed great.

Well I would definietly start with tossing the kit tires and use whatever the fast guys are using at your track. Then if its still doing the kick deal try laying the rear shocks in one hole either top or bottom. Little changes can make a huge difference....btw...do you ever sleep??? lol

LOL, dont sound like my wife!

I am being yelled at as I type to come down and watch TV, lol.

I have the buggy and there were no tires so I run the CF M2 from proline.


When you say lay the shocks down what do you mean? Currently I have JB's set up:
xform/index.php?act=view&ID=111&setup=xb8ec

So how should I move the shocks?

Ps just won a full clutch set up on ebay for $40 after shipping. CB/flywheel/shoes/springs/washers/nut/collet ect.

Scored some diffs other day for $23-26 with bevel gear and all parts including bulkhead.

#1 on rear shock tower or #3 on rear arm...could even try and move the rear hubs forward....JB's setups are really good just tweak to your style of driving. I'm mainly an onroad guy so I have a way smoother driving style then most the offroaders lol Better yet shot him a pm I have spoken with him numerous times and he is always more then willing to help. Ask him what his driving style is smooth, point n shoot, etc...

Thanks that makes sense. I read the book again and doing as you say will provide better side traction and better for high bite tracks like the one I am at.

I am going to give that a shot before I mess with diff oils and see what happens. But if not it looks like thinner oil at the rear will help with the spin outs.

I really do think its a more smooth on the throttle set up which will be nice to get used to since i know it will fair better then what I see the other guys doing. I see them just going for the tripples and full bore at everything but crash way too often and slow me catches up every time. Now all I have to do is learn to get a bit faster and stay under control and I should be good to go.

According to JB's setup, maybe try moving the rear roll center up to about 4, Ive got it there and my buggy hauls HARD in the corners, even on power hard.

My diff setup though is currently 3/5/3 Xray oils.