XRAY - Model racing cars

You might be getting some rear chassis slap as the rear clears the jump, which would kick the front end down. Try a tighter spring combo front and back maybe. It willl give the buggy a bit more "loft" as you fly thru the air due to the stored spring energy, which will give you more time to correct in the air.

Or if you are into a situation where you have a steep faced jump right before a slow sharp turn, a driver tends to let off the throttle to prepare for the turn, before dealing with the jump, which in turn kicks the nose way down.

Just throwing out a couple ideas.

You definitely need more dampening...

If you are running two hole pistons the general rule of thumb is you run 100wt (cps) different for every hole change. For example, if you run 500wt cps with 1.5's and you want to try 1.4's run 400wt cps, etc...

If you are running the light blue springs, I would suggest running 1.5's in the rear with 600wt cps (~45wt associated) and 1.4's in the front with the same oil.

But my buddy was having the same problem with his old car that it would nose down off of the jump and it was something dragging in the drive train.

But then again, it will nose down differently if it's something in the dirve train vs. suspension, I would really have to see your car on the track to tell you what it is, but most of the EC's I have seen run tend to jump rear end low, so if you want to trade cars let me know, haha!

if you have'nt tryed the 4 hole piston's you mite want to give that a try, I got my EC used but it only had about 4 races on it, and it had the 4 hole pistons in it so i put the stock setup piston's back in and i did'nt like it as well as the 4 hole piston's it seemed like it had more kickup in the rear to me with the stock setup piston's. I am trying a 6 hole piston now and having good luck with them for now.

Right now you have to hand drill them to 4 hole.

I bought a GMK metric drill bit set from Amain and it worked great. I used me calipers which have sharp points on them then measured the existing holes then took the calipers and pressed them into the pistons to make a mark and simply drilled them.

Its a bit hard to get 100% perfect but take your time and you can do it close enough. I think the only hard part is driving the bit straight but get it eye ball close and you should be good.

Soon they are releasing 4 hole pistons with square holes to change the dampening some how.

The are available for the new big bore shocks.

When will they be available in US hobby shops such as amainhobbies?