XRAY - Model racing cars

I try to shim my clutch (shim behind the collar and everything) to where I have atleast one shim between the bearing and the clutch nut, and one between the screw on the end of the shaft and that bearing. Also make sure you use shims that only touch the inside race of the bearing, not both, this will burn bearings up real fast.

Try these for clutch shims, they're awesome: 33 8585 they are for the NT1, but I don't know why they didn't make these for the buggy sooner...

Also I change mine after every gallon, and before mains, whichever is first.

tip
to have the correct degree engine versus gear

Hi,

i have the same problem with my clutch. This weekend i noticed that the clutch wasn't rotating smoothly so i took it apart. And saw that my bearings where broken. The inner metal protection ring has snapped off. I aslo have (i think) alot off play in my clutch (see photo) Is this ok or is it to much. I ordered some shims to make the gap to a minimum. I also ordered some new bearings, the normal xray but also some rubber sealed versions (high speed bearings offcourse) Is there a reason that xray did not use rubber sealed bearings? Because everywhere else they use it (xb8 TQ version)

thanks
Guy




ps: how can i post a picture directly without a link??[url][/url]

Guy, when you open up the "post reply" page, you will see the 9 little tabs above ( B, I, U, QUOTE, CODE, LIST, LIST=, IMG, URL)

you click the "IMG" tab, then paste your link right after that, then click "IMG" again to place it right after your link.

Skip down a few lines and do the same thing again for your other picture. It looks like your picture links will work. See if it will post the picture by creating a new post and then click "preview" before clicking "submit" usning the steps I posted above.


You might have had the bearings shimmed either to tight or to loose, or the engine mount moved a bit. Alot of heat in the clutchbell area so Xray uses a top quality high speed metal shielded brg. Rubber shielded brgs tend to have a bit of drag to them. (my thoughts anyways) Rubber shileded brgs on the hubs and outdrives to reject the dirt.

i tryed the img code but at the preview i didn't saw anything, but ok you have seen the pictures.

keith, the bearing cound not be shimmed to tight because of the play i have on the clutch (you've seen the picture) so too loose? or could it be that the engine was not aligned correctly with the spur gear (to much force, what i read in the posts above). Well the rubber bb hace drag in the beginning, but after a bit of time that drag is gone (still more drag than metal shielded) but do you guys recommend installing the normal bb from xray or the rubber bb.

thanks
Guy

There you go, I did it for ye!!!

Oh and you can't do it without a link, XRay's forum doesnt support image hosting, but you can use a free image host (like your lycos) or photobucket, or Mac.com if you have a mac...

Several of the local drivers just replace their bearings using the cheap bearings from http://www.avidrc.com/ every week. At $1 per bearing, it is inexpensive enough to do each week. And, they don't even run the metal shielded bearings, they use the rubber sealed ones. Some have suggested changing them before the main, and leave them on until right before the next week's mains. I tried the TKO ceramic clutch bearings ($5 per bearing), and they didn't last any longer than the Avids do. I shim using the Kyosho shims until there is about 0.1mm play front to back. You don't want to remove all of the play.

As far as your clutch goes, take the congo sized shim off the front, and shim the clutch at the collar before you slide it on the crank. This will take up some slack at the end so you don't have to run that many shims on the end. And the most important thing is to make sure that you are not using a shim that hits the inner and outer races, you want a thin shim that will only contact the inner race, and you want a little bit of play in the clutch, if you don't have any, the clutch bell will expand, like normal, with heat then destroy the bearings.