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XRAY - Model racing cars • View topic - Rearend very loose..................please HELP!!!!!

XRAY - Model racing cars

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 Post subject: Rearend very loose..................please HELP!!!!!
PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 02:11:14 
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 05:12:29
Posts: 21
Location: Evansdale. IA


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 03:41:32 
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 09:11:35 
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Joined: Sun Jun 18, 2006 23:51:50
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Location: MACAU (via HK)
Hi,

The TQ...yes, it provides lots of steering.

Decreasing front kick up helps to prevent shifting too much weight to the front at off throttle and braking.

My setting is having the lower arm eccentric bushings (1) facing downwards, both front and rear. Front upper arm with (0), also front and rear. Lower arms parallel to chassis kick up area is a good starting point and those roll center adjustments are fine tuning.

Stabilizer front 2.4mm, rear 3.0mm

The rest remain stock.

Good luck

Joaquim


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 13:19:28 
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EXTREME


give us your diff ratios and other settings.....


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 13:33:49 
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Joined: Thu Sep 09, 2004 10:24:50
Posts: 149
Location: Oslo, Norway
Hi.. I`ve been driving the xb8 and tq for 2 years now. The following changes will probably help you alot...

1. Use hole number 7 in the rear roll center adjustments together with the outer hole on the hub

2. Use minimum 3 degrees of toe in

3. Use minimum anti squat in the rear (inserts face down)

4. run the diffs like this front 5000 (mugen) middle 5000 (mugen) back 3000 (mugen, i prefer 2000 to get it a little bit nervous)

5. run max droop in the rear

6. run the shortest wheelbase in the rear

I hope this will help you, please give me feedback of how you think it works.. Of course tires will also matters alot...


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 20:29:18 
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 05:12:29
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Location: Evansdale. IA
Ok guys I posted my set-up sheet. I spent a entire week trying everything imaginable with this buggy and have had no luck. If you guys can help me I would appreciate it. Thank You


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 21:34:38 
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I don't see anything that wrong in your set-up sheet
could be something mecanical in your drivetrain

else put 0.9 springs in the clutch will be more forgiving
alu torquerod front, the plastic rear
try 5000-3500/4000-5000


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 21:52:28 
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 05:12:29
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Location: Evansdale. IA
I have tried 0.9 springs. All that does is give my motor a slight bogg and then breaks the rearend loose when it picks up. I have tried every possible diff fluid combination with no luck.

I have several people running the TQ here and they all seem to have the same problem. Looks like nobody has a good solution. I hate to change buggies, but it looks like there isnt a good solution to this problem.

I wish I had my old XB8 back it was planted and very fast. Thanks for trying to help, just not getting anywhere with this.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 21:59:29 
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Joined: Fri Nov 10, 2006 06:18:49
Posts: 330
Location: Houston
Post the link to your setup and I'm pretty sure I could tell you what you need to do. The beauty of the XRAY is that you can make it do whatever you want it to do. If you want it to push a bit you can do that. If you want lots of steering you can do that. If you want a planted rear you can do that. I have set mine up to do all of those things.


You just need to find a good setup that feels comfortable to you. Post the link to your setup so we can see what you're working with. Make sure you fill out the complete setup though because even small things can make a big difference in the handling.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 22:10:05 
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Location: Evansdale. IA
Here is the link to my set-up xform/index.php?act=view&ID=297&setup=xb8tq

I know the beauty of the XB8, my problem is the TQ doesnt act anything like the Original.

Like I said before is I have ran the Xray for over 2 years now and know the car very well. I have never had this much problem setting up a buggy before.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 22:12:48 
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Location: NYC
It could be your tire choice + rear toe-in combination. High tractioned track + high traction tire compund can create a double effect in addition to 3 degrees of rear toe-in which may be the reason for your car to break loose in the rear. Try switching tire compunds as it incorporates 80% of your set-up. 335 has been the go to set-up. I'm surprised to hear that it's not working for you. Bring your anit-squat at 2 degrees and your rear toe-in plate at 2 degrees as well. Try going up 55 wt. in the front and 45 wt. in the rear of your shocks and have your read droop set at universal level. Hope that helps. Check out my set-up if you want. :D

Also keep in mind that your driving style can be a major factor as well. running 335 requires you to be gentle on the throttle when entering the corner because your going to have a slight push in the rear.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 22:20:25 
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Location: Evansdale. IA
Thanks for all your advise, but I have tried every possible combination.

Again I stress.........I am not new to this and I have tried all this. I just dont get what is so diffenrent on this from the original.

As far as tires, I tried Werks W's, Werks Lugs, Proline Crime fighters, panther Gators, Panther Komodo's, Panther Chamelons not really anything I havent tried.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 22:25:16 
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Location: Houston
First I suggest you run the Proline Crimefighters. They give a lot more sidebite than the Bowties.

As far as setup, definitely change to the 2 degrees antisquat, go to 4 degrees rear toein, change the wheelbase shim position to the rear so the rear arms are all the way forward and change the wheelbase on the hubs so that the hubs are all the way forward. Both of the spacers should be in the rear. These changes should be made all at once. They all put more weight on the rear on power. More inboard toein actually gives you a shorter wheelbase for more weight on the rear while also keeping the rear steady.

Next change the kickup to zeros and make sure you change the front roll center to zeros too. That will help keep the weight from shifting to the front as you get off the power. You might want to go even further to ones down on the kickup. If that doesn't give you enough rear traction, also go one step up in stiffness on the front sway bar and one step down on the rear swaybar.

After all these changes, check your rear ride height and make sure the arms are level or maybe just slightly above level. Then set the front ride height so that the chassis is level.

I guarantee you that you will see a BIG difference.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 23:10:23 
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 23:10:58 
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2006 04:11:23 
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Last edited by dbarnes on Thu Nov 16, 2006 04:12:41, edited 1 time in total.

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