XRAY - Model racing cars

I am requesting a bit of help in working out a good Set-up for the following track Located in Medina, Ohio. The surface is hard packed Clay. LAnes are minimum 12 ftand are up 15 ft wide at points. On race day the track is blown off and watered every two to three rounds. When the mains roll around in the evening the track tends to stay moist and is either slimy or tacky depending on how much the water has soaked in. The hot tire for the mains is Panther Switch 2.0. I practice during the week and the track tends to be very hard with dust and or marbles on top.

I have TQ set up per the standard TQ-US set up sheet. I have 3k mugen oil in the diffs all the way around, and 60 Losi front, 45 losi rear in the shocks. Initially I had 5k in the rear diff per various recomendations. I am running P5X Mugen 1005 pipe and short werks conical header. For Clutch I managed to rip one of the pins out af the flywheel on the staock TQ clutch and have switched to a UE fourshoe aluminum clutch with .9 springs.

The biggest handling issue that I have right now and am battling is the tendency of the buggy to want to spin out or swap ends when getting on the power coming out of turns. What do you call this? Oversteering?

Any insight and guidance that you provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance. Pictures of the current track layout to follow.

max out your rear toe 4? and add 1oz of stick on wheel weight just in front of the rear diff case.

maybe get away from allum shoes too...

What I think you should do is try not to run a perfect setup for when it is dry or wet. Run a setup that is in between the two. That way you will be more consistent. Even though the XB8 allows you to set a perfect setup much easier than other cars, you should rarely do this because as you have experienced, track conditions often change so what you want to focus on is a setup that works good in all areas rather than be perfect in any particular one.

That's because in offroad the conditions change a lot throughout the day and besides, different parts of the track will have a multitude of different conditions anyway.

If my car works too good in any particular area, I start looking for the weaknesses and dialing that strong point out because that is bound to mean that it won't work all that well in some opposite condition that is bound to occur.

Then once you get a good setup that you are comfortable with that works well just about anywhere for you then stick with it and work on your driving skills.

If the track is not to bumpy I would try increasing the rear anti sqaut. If it is bumpy you could try lowering the rear ride height, or moving the rear hubs forward to get more weight on the rear end.

Now we are getting there gentlemen. Thank you! I tried working with the rear shocks today. I eneded up laying them all the way out on the arms and all the way in on the uprights. Seemed to help somewhat. I am not there yet. Keep it coming?

You can also run the rear camber link using the outermost hole on the hub for more rear traction and the traction will be a lot more consistent.

Don't forget to adjust the link length or you will have too much camber.