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XRAY - Model racing cars • View topic - Question/ help about Adjustable Aluminum Rear Hubs

XRAY - Model racing cars

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 Post subject: Question/ help about Adjustable Aluminum Rear Hubs
PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 06:08:32 
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Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2005 20:17:05
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Location: NYC
After I was done setting up the aluminum rear hubs with 2 degrees of outboard toe I realized that the inboard toe cannot go lower than 2 degrees making the rear run at 4 degrees altogether. Would it be possible to use the orig. rear inboard toe block so I can use 1 degree of toe-in on the inside? On the instruction it just shows the hubs as having 2 degrees of outboard toe-in. I do not understsand the other numbers being 0, 1, and 1.1. Would they represent the degree of toe-in offered as well, or would they be something else? Thanks in advance guys.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 06:43:11 
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Location: Canberra, Australia
the numbers don't refer to degree's or anything, they're just on there to differentiate each other.

0 - 2 deg block
0.0 deg = both 1's closest to the centre of the block
0.5 deg = both .5's closest to the centre of the block
1.0 deg = both 0's in the middle of the block
1.5 deg = both .5's to the outside
2.0 deg = both 1's to the outside of the block
2 - 4 deg block
2.0 deg = both 1's to the centre of the block
2.5 deg = both .5's to the inside of the block
3.0 deg = both 0's in the middle
3.5 deg = both .5's to the outside of the block
4.0 deg = both 1's to the outside of the block

you'll have to turn one of them upside down so both sides are even if you get me..

otherwise.. page 41 of the TQ book has it....


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 20:51:03 
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 16:15:53 
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Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2006 17:15:17
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Location: RC America
Those are for different offsets, up, down and across. There is only one set of eccentric bushings that will add the outboard toe and that's the 2 degree. All the rest of the inserts are for roll center/offset positions. You can make the car wider, narrower, and change the roll center (like moving the plastic ones up and down).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 16:43:36 
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Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2006 17:15:17
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Location: RC America
Here's the link for the downloadable sheet, if you run the hubs again...

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/showfi ... le_id=3031


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 02:22:24 
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2006 03:02:54 
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Joined: Fri Mar 31, 2006 19:36:12
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2006 05:39:54 
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Joined: Fri Feb 17, 2006 19:13:04
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Location: Castle Rock, CO **USA**
The hubs are a great investment, I bought them shortly after I got my car. They give you a lot more adjustment opportunities then the stock composite ones. That is why I chose to get those instead of the front knuckles. I know they probly serve thier purpose but not as much as the rear hubs in my opinion. You also gotta love the durability of them. :D


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2006 06:06:15 
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Buggy, how's your set-up with the adj. hubs on? Do you use the TQ rear blocks or the original XB8 blocks to get 3 toe-in altogether?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2006 19:11:10 
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Joined: Fri Feb 17, 2006 19:13:04
Posts: 98
Location: Castle Rock, CO **USA**
No the only "TQ" item I use is the rear shock tower, I am using 1.5 degrees of rear toe at the moment and seem to be liking it, more inboard helps the steering. I use the #1 bushing in the upper position on the hubs, gives the same impression of using the upper hole that is on the composite ones, I do that to obtain a lower roll center. When I was using the 2 degree option my rear end was all over the place, and not that the toe -in was the reason but I was trying to find all that I could to give me less traction in the rear and I like it so far. So now with my new diff set-up along with this adjustment I will have to say, the car has never handled so well for me :D . Anyway I hope this helps.


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