XRAY - Model racing cars

just take a dremmel tip that comes to a point, and just dremmel the hole head of the screw off until it falls off.

jontejsson - That is correct, don't use threadlock on anything except metal to metal. The threadlock actually eats away the plastic so that is why it stripped. The Xray plastic is actually very strong and even after a few months it still snaps when you try to take out a screw. I use threadlock on the setscrews for the center universals, chassis braces and a little dab for the aluminum knuckles (I will use an exacto and place a little threadlock in the threads of the knuckles and not on the screw, that way no threadlock gets on the bushing).

the top screw on the front brace always loosens and the 5th motor mount hole will loosen ( if you have the new mount)and that is about it. I have loctite only where david just mentioned.
I check the motor mount screws every round just in case.

also in my opinion blue loctite is the wrong stuff. it is for 1/4 inch and larger fasteners. there is a green( i think) that is designed for what we do. but I havn't seen it in any local stores.

auto2 I get the blue and green thread locktite at autozone I have also checked Checker and they carry it you may be able to find some at Napa and I have seen it at Walmart.

Is your rear brace plastic? or did you change it out I use thread lock on the rear brace I am kind of new to all of this but I thought the xb8 had an aluminum rear brace and the xb8r had the plastic? I could be getting the parts mixed up though

I have never had a problem with removing from plastic but then I have never used thread lock on plastic parts I once stripped a screw, I was able to get it out by heating with a soldering iron the heat is supposto loosen up the threadlock and heat will cause expansion I haven't tried this method on plastic but I am sure would be the same concept I haven't tried to see if a soldering iron on a lower setting would melt the plastic but if you have a scrap or broken part to test on try heating just enough heat that it won't melt the plastic and hold the iron tip right on the screw don't know if this will work but worth a shot I suppose. I would save drilling the head off as a last resort but thats just me...if the rear brace is alu try and heat the brace rather than the screw.

The stucked screws were the screws running thru the chassis up in the alu rear brace so I wasn't using it on a plastic part. But thanks to imaxx I was able to drill the head off the screw.

you're welcome...