XRAY - Model racing cars

I seem to be getting myself in a real mess. I have been running in an RBMods S7II in my XB8 and I also have a Venom Temp Gauge fitted. Im now 1 and 1/4 gallons through this engine and have used the heat cycle method of break in. I have now started to tune it. My problem is that I have always been told not to let your engine get too hot, shortens engines life etc....... but i keep looking at the temp gauge and worrying because I am hitting 250-60f although the engine is going well, as good as a friends stock S7II anyway although I was expecting more performance. Has this engine broken in I keep asking myself Im confused as you hear of modded engines running cooler?
Im tempted to throw the temp gauge away as im always tuning to temp and not performance as I dont class myself as being that hot on tuning. Im getting a trail of smoke all the way up the revs though.

Any ideas or opinions would be appreciated?

I have the Venom temp guage too and my engine always seems to be running hot. I had a friend to measure the temp with a temp gun and it always measured 10-15 degrees F hotter on the Venom. The good thing is that it was always consistently the same amount hotter so that's all that matters. The only problem is that I don't know how accurate my friend's guage is.

I'm running a O.S. VSPEC and last race I came off the track with a max temp around 290 but the engine was running really well and had blue smoke throughout the rpm range.

Thanks for the reply nitroracer, well im gonna ditch the temp gauge. Seems like theres hope for the engine yet.

first off too cold is worse than too hot.

what clutch are you using?

what percentage is you track slow turns to long straights?

how long will it idle before loading up?

my guess---try riching up your low end and tighting up the clutch.
black shoes drilled with 1.1 springs as a test.( meaning make it engage at a higher RPM)

I have 1.1 springs with mugen black shoes,
I would say the track is 70-75% turns to 25-30% straight 25mtr max for one straight.

loading up wise it has to be about 7-10 secs

Ok sounds like your in ball park.
make sure springs are relativilly new, and drill 1 or 2 small holes in each shoe.

without being thereI would richen up the LSN a good 1/8 raise the idle speed and see if temp comes down.

that motor is not tuned like a P5 or OS engine, it is all top end and needs a lean HSN and a rich LSN.

why not give rick a call. he loves to talk to customers.

BTW 10 temp guns will give 11 different readings.

Im I right or wrong in saying that higer nitro content 30% should use a cooler plug? Im using an MC59(hot) plug at the moment?

So if I used say, an RB6 would that cool the temps down?

A cooler plug will give hotter temps... MC59 is a Hot Plug RB Mods says to use a MC59 or RB4,, with 30% nitro....

I used a MC59 and RB4,, but was hard to get the temps up to 200,,so I use aRB5 now,,, temps around 205.

Thanks for the replies, looking back and also other info i have amassed about the RBMods engines there could be a chance the engine hasnt actually run in yet. I have used the heat cycle method to the letter so I cant see that I have done something wrong. As far as needle settings go I have only tweaked them a total of 1/4 turn each end. So perhaps there is still a chance that the temps might drop once the engine has broken in. Even though I thought it had especially after a gallon and a quarter.

Ditch the guns completely and just go by exhaust emisions. Spitting oil - Too rich, Trail of smoke and no oil - Just right, No smoke (And no way on earth can you touch the head with a bare hand) - Too lean. That is the easiest way to do it and often quickest. All these temp guns are so far off the mark, it's often hard to know whick ones right, if any.

Cheers mate, after our discussion the other day im gonna take that route too. Hey, if the engine blows, buy another one, simple as that