if your running 2010 diff case be sure to REMOVE the little dust cover lip (easily done with a body reamer or dremel tool) all this does it trap dirt or in the case of using teh grease tip it creates ALOT of drag, remove it and apply grease tip from the OUTSIDE making sure to not get it into the cvd, much less drag and agian your bearing is sealed as best as possible.
another build trick i tryed out last rebuild was with the cvds... alot of people build them dry some grease them, either way you eitehr have to clean and regrease frequently or have a gritty driveline with accelerated wear and no protection from rust.
What i did with my last build was take all 6 of the cvds and dissassemble them and soak them in the parts washer (degreaser in a tub will do the same) then take them out and dry them off. i then assemble them dry and spray the joint with Schaeffer's moly roller chain lube.... this stuff is great ive been using it on my motocross bikes for about a year now and trust me this stuff when used right repels dirt and dust. It is basically a penetrating oil and moly lube. Once you spray the CVD joints wiggle them around so the spray works into the pins and slides. then wipe them down with paper towels to remove the excess and blow the excess out of the joint with compressed air. they will still look wet after you remove the excess, build your car like normal and by the next day the joints will be 100% dry and ready to go. Youll notice a big difference in how smooth the cvds and drivetrain feel. And when i tore my buggy down today i did NOT redo my cvds they looked perfect.
The next idea i had was to elimate drag of the grease on the ring and pinion gears so this rebuild i removed the grease and coated them with this moly roller cahin lube. After i had it assembled i gave the center diff a little flick and WOW the drive train is as free as a 1/10th 4wd buggy. My idea on how to guage the effectiveness is by the temperature of the out side of the pinon gear with the schaeffer's in the cvd joints my temps went from 140s to 120s i think the rest of the heat/friction in the drivetrain will be relieved from the ring and pinions and hope to see temps in the 100s or 110s as proof. I will report back on my findings after todays race.
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it works that good!