XRAY - Model racing cars

I had moved the front arms forward and the rear arms forward, smallest front swaybar, slighltly heavier oil in rear shocks, 3000wt diff oil in rear, the rest box stock. I have done other things and did not like the changes so went back to stock. I am used to alot more off power steering then I seem to be able to get, maybe change my driving style? Thank you for your help all.

Put 3-5-7 in the diffs, you will get a lot of off-power steering. Make sure you enough rear droop as well, as this will allow more weight to transfer to the nose.

Allmost all the tracks I run on have tight 180's and hairpins and are on the medium size of track. Most are fairly smooth for the most part and are hardpacked clay, some loose top others not, regardless of which track, I am always trying to get more off power steering. Thank you again for the help.

Hey,

I'm going through my truggy and rebuilding everything for this season. New chassis, new arms, c hubs, front and rear hubs, and anything else that shows any wear. I'm wondering if I should rebuild the CVDs or not. The couplings aren't cheap but mine have developed some play in them. Is the coupling the wear point that should be replaced or do you guys just keep running them? I would going to replace all 6 and put in new pins with the flat spot on them.
Anything else I should look at? All diffs and shocks look great and I stay on top of bearing replacements.

Thanks

There's a little play in them but it's tough to tell if it's the actual drive shaft or coupling that's worn, or both. I ran the truck all year and put maybe 4 gallons on it. I've seen some that were much worse than mine, I wouldn't even consider mine bad. I know I could get a little more life out of the drive train but I want to freshen it up for the season. Realistically it would be fine not touching it especially since I have another truck that I will be using for practice and club racing. This one will only be used for big races so I want it perfect.
I'm a bit of a maintenance freak and enjoy the fact that I didn't have a single DNF this year. Now I'm on a mission to keep that streak going.

Thanks Jason, you going to the Icebreaker at Indy next month?

I'm bummed I can't make Porter, I'll be in Turks and Caicos.

I'm on the fence on what class to enter for the Ice Breaker. I have to run open/expert in RC PRO. I don't know if I should sign up for expert or not but I know I need to bite the bullet and run with you guys.

can U tell me what center diff oil does to the car say if i run
5/5/2
5/7/2
the only oil i play with is rear running the 808E
what does thicker center diff oil do? say if i went 5/10/3
i find it to be a fine line between the 3 u get the same effect .. thick rear oil will b less diff action,engage sooner n make the car loose on power, too light oil will diff out sooner n do the same thing.. i run 41 od in the front n it works good but,could u get the same result with thick oil 7/5/2will that make the car loose also?
how does oil weight effect off power steering? thick/thin?
the center diff is my new project so,i would like to know what u guy's think.. I run indoor clay very cold 35/30deg avg the car is a lil under 7.1/2 lbs thanx Kevin

Jason,

Have you tried using a fuel gun on your XT8 with the Pro Line Bulldog body? I was looking at mine this weekend and it doesn't look like it will work unless I cut a hole big enough for the fuel gun to extend into the body past the taper. That would be a huge hole if I'm correct.

Thanks, guess I'll cut it out tonight and see. It's an old body anyway.

Hey guys I just recently bought the 808e kit I also have the 09 spec 808 could you give me a rough starting point on the Diffs and shocks/springs. Thanks
Good luck @ the Nitro Pit

Jason, congrats on the top 10 finish on the big stage. It's nice to see Xray up there battling with the top pros here in the US.