I finally got my 808 conversion running this weekend. It was perfect. So powerful but very drivable! Only way is to go sensored. My Tekin RX8 with 2050kV T8 felt really smooth from 0RPM. I tried fellow racer's 808 with Castle Mamba Monster and it was like day and night. The sensorless system was very numb on the accelerations and you didn't "feel the power" at all! Particularly with one jump that followed to sharp corner and you had to accelerate from almost standstill. Sensored was perfect, better than well tuned nitro. Sensorless Castle was like very low-rich nitro that took off when it got some RPMs
With ~550g 4S Lipo on the front left as close to center-line as possible and motor mounted to right rear (as usual) the left-to-right weight balance was PERFECT! RX8 ESC was behind the battery in the left side of the car, where the nitro engine usually sits. This arrangement of parts looks very-very nice. Front-to-back balance was very good also. The car jumped on the particular track much better than with nitro setup! Maybe my setup has improved but I think it was because of the front-to-back balance.
Only thing I could think of is that the whole layout could be mirrored on the factory made 808E because of the torque-roll caused by the motor! Take the described layout that's widely used and mirror it. It only needs a new chassis plate with center diff and steering servo moved to left side. I think you should consider this idea
Rear of the chassis has too much flex when radio box and servo plate assembly is removed. Maybe have a longer rear brace up to center diff or some kind of extra plate to screw on the chassis plate. I had to upgrade to alu rear brace after 2-3 runs because the stock plastic one broke - it has never broken before when running nitro!
808 is GREAT conversion as is but you can make it even better
At the moment I can go back to nitro setup in about an hour. No modifications were made to chassis plate. Only 2 screw sockets removed from left side guard and one from right. My RTR weight was 3400g with heavy 35C 5Ah 4S liPo, heavy body and no lighter upgrade parts used.
Add some clever battery box design with optional battery box cover to keep the softcased LiPo protected and you'll have a winner
I think 1:8 should run with 4S hardcased (not very common yet) or softcased 4S that has at least 3 sides fully covered with battery box or extra battery box "lid". Using 2x2S hardcased "onroad" lipos adds unwanted weight.
With current 808 the main problem is that there are too little lateral room for battery. Wider chassis plate makes it possible to put the battery just on the chassis plate. Most of the today's battery trays put the battery at least 5-6mm high up.
Just my 2 cents after driving my converted 808 for the first time 100% successfully. And those are my "Xray wants YOU!" first opinions on 808E
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