XRAY - Model racing cars

Hello all-
I built the car with the european track setup, since I didn't yet have the parts for the US track style. It didn't work too well on the track I run on, with big jumps etc. Here's a picture-

So... I tried Jason B.'s starting set up for the EC-

and tried it today. The car was like night and day better, especially when the track was damp and fairly sticky. There are two things however, that I'd like to improve:
1)the track dries out quickly, and becomes slippery-hard pack base with fine dust/sand surface, it becomes really easy to spin out when accelerating out of the corner-someone reccomended 552 in the diffs. How could I fix this problem? Change tires is an obvious possibility.
2)The european style track setup had a lot more off power steering-I dont have the alu knuckles yet since they are on backorder everywhere. I want that off power steering back-is there anything I could try or will the alu knuckles fix that?
3)I would classify the track as medium bumpy, and I'd like the car to absorb the bumps a little bit more-it dances around a little in the holes/ruts. bottoming resistance is good on the jumps.

By the way, looks like the leaking diff's are fixed, thanks everyone for the help.

Well I am using his set up at my track and at first it was pretty bad until I read a bit more on why he used those settings. Basically they are all on power settings and when I went back to the track this weekend I did much better.

I stayed light on the throttle through all the turns and hardly ever used the brakes. I was able to go much faster in the long run then the guys blipping the throttle and being all over the track.

It all depends on your driving but if you are ripping up to a corner, slamming on your brakes, and wanting to hard throttle out I dont think this set up will work for that. Personally after watching the others do that I dont think that is a good style for the best lap times.

I am going to change the rear shock location a bit and move the shocks more vertical to increase the dampening chacteristics a tinny bit which would be much mroe subtle then a change in oil weight or piston holes. This will keep the rear end off the ground I hope and other then that I think that set up is spot on once you learn to drive accordingly.

The other thing I have different is the caster since I dont have the 1 deg bushings in his set up. I used the 2 deg bushings and with the right amount of kick up my over all caster is with in 1 deg of Jasons. I did this for 2 other reasons as well which were when running the aluminum knuckles the nut holding the steering links to the ackerman will hit the underside of the upper camber links. Also with the C-hubs angled back too far (when running 2 deg bushings upside down) you loose a fair amoutn of droop since the hubs hang up in the A-arms.

In the end the knuckels arent going to do anything for your handling that I know of but I have them and dont think I really need them at all. The stockers are pretty solid and have the metal threads supported in the palstic so its not like they are plastic threads that will blow out.

That is true since when there is pressure or many other drivers on the track I choke up a ton more.

Sort of like my shotting hobby that when you get nervous or twitch your shot is way off as compared to LEARNING to be calm and stay consistent.

This week they are having a big race again that I am not in but will go watch and talk to the Xray guys from this board. I think after next weekend I will hang around longer to race and see what happens.

Yes they will help but you could also try running less caster.

JB

yeah, less caster occured to me also, thanks for all the advice.