XRAY - Model racing cars

Thinking about it, yes I read somewhere about warming the pack, not heating the pack! I suspect though Flavio you do not need to do this in Brazil!!

I do not use the Xray battery stops. My approach contains three elements

1. There are holes in the chassis that you can use to put some flathead screws (probably 12mm) in a row and just inside of the battery,close to the belt. This ensures that if you get hit on the side the pack is not pushed inwards

2. I use the optional Xray battery bar (had it on the T2 with NiMhs); I place a strip of velcro on the top of the pack and a strip underneath the battery bar

3. I secure the rear with a strip of battery tape at 90 degrees to the pack, wrapped around the battery and the top deck. This is probably being lazy. On the T2 I did not need the tape but on the 008 I could not get the battery bar posts shimmed perfectly to get the grip. I am sure if I went back and did it again I could get the shimming right! Also now I am using the velcro (suggested by someone else on this forum a few months ago) I probably do not need the tape but it is now a habit

Sounds good!
But i think I will use my LiPo Tray.
I can put all weight needed on the center of chassis beside the front belt!
When we had a lower weight rule i think I will use your way!
Take a look on the LiPo tray.

Sorry about the picture and information in different posts. Couldn't figure out how to delete the picture and put it in with the information.

The picture is my 007 with a 3600 Orion LiPo pack. It has a hard case with the bottom having "bumps" which allow the battery case to sit down into the battery slots on the chassis. Here's what I did.

1. Install only the front and rear inside corner battery stops on the chassis.
2. Remove the battery strap and
3. Remove the battery strap posts and replace them with the chassis posts from an 007 (or 008 if there are such posts).
4. Using a section of gray plastic electical channel material, cut it to cover the posts and the outside of the battery as shown.
5. Use button-head screws to secure the battery cover to the posts.
6. Cut holes in the channel material for battery plugin and balancing hole.
7. I had to add a lot of weight to the battery cover to get it up to ROAR requirements. In my opinion, adding weight to a battery cover makes a lot more sense than adding it to the battery itself.

I really like the design of your battery strap, the idea of adding weight to the battery has it plus and negatives. If you use the same battery or same type then this will work if not you will be adding and subtractin weight from the battery holder. See my post and give me feedback.

viewtopic.php?t=8151

They design of the PPD billet battery mount keeps the majority of the weigt low for lower CG. I realize the lipo pack is farther from centerline but this does help facilitate balancing with less weight. Our club track requires alot of weight to be added. They extra space on the tray towards the centerline gives you plenty of space to add weight. Also the beauty of the PPD tray is that you can use multiple types of lipo packs. I use the 3800 30C team orion and also the 3800 25C Trinity. The Trinity pack actually has more punch.

Hope this helps, please give comments on whether you see some negatives to my setup

Rob Knasel
South Vienna, OH