XRAY - Model racing cars

Complete XRAY T2'009 information:

XRAY presents complete information about the T2'009. Check the Virtual Tour at the main page (Flash movie), or follow these links to find more:

- PDF file (5.8 MB size)

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file (ZIP) (2.5 MB size)

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- XLS file


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Complete XRAY T2R PRO information:

XRAY presents complete information about the T2R PRO. Check the Virtual Tour at the main page (Flash movie), or follow these links to find more:

- PDF file (6.1 MB size)

- PDF file (ZIP) (2.5 MB size)

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- XLS file

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Complete XRAY T2'008 information:

XRAY presents complete information about the T2'008. Check the Virtual Tour at the main page (Flash movie), or follow these links to find more:

- PDF file (5.5 MB size)

- PDF file (5.7 MB size)

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file (ZIP) (2 MB size)

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- XLS file

- PDF file

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Complete XRAY T2'007 information:


XRAY presents complete information about the T2'007. Check the Virtual Tour at the main page (Flash movie), or follow these links to find more:

- PDF file (ZIP) (4.6 MB size)

- PDF file (ZIP) (2 MB size)

...NOTE: please see below for corrections to the setup book

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file (1 MB size)

- PDF file (5 MB size)

- PDF file (5.5 MB size)

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF

- PDF

- PDF file

- PDF file

- XLS file

- PDF file

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Complete XRAY T2 information:

XRAY presents complete information about the T2. Check the Virtual Tour at the main page (Flash movie), or follow these links to find more:

- PDF file (ZIP) (4 MB size)

- PDF file (ZIP) (2 MB size)

...NOTE: please see below for corrections to the setup book

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF file

- PDF with listing of all Spare Parts

- PDF file

- PDF file

- XLS file

Are the lengths for the steering links in the T2 build manual correct?

Corrected instructions:

In the setup sheets, is the inner ackermann position indicator referring to the bearing position or the position of the composite bearing holder tabs?

Unless otherwise noted in the setup sheet you are viewing, please use the inner ackerman position to indicate the location of the servo saver (which is opposite of the composite bearing holder tabs).

Therefore, the forward "dot" in the setup sheets refers to the servo saver being positioned forward and vice versa.

NOTE: The original T2 Setup Book has these positions reversed. Update will be posted in the near future.

What are the spring rates for the silver and gold springs included in the T2 kit?

The gold springs are similar to the and the silver springs are similar to the . However, they are more progressive and increase in stiffness as they are compressed.

How do I keep my foam tires from rubbing against the steering blocks?

Either of the following two methods work well:

• Use flat washers, with an inside diameter of 3.5mm, on the outer axle threads in between the hex nut and the rim of both front tires. At least 0.5mm width worth of shimming is needed on each front axle. fit perfectly and allow very fine adjustments for track width as well.
• Mount each front foam tire on a tire truer and use a file to trim off 0.5mm from the inner edge of the rim

XRAY Announcement on T2 Rear Uprights

Due to a specific moulding/manufacturing process of the rear uprights with integrated toe-in and the involved production tolerances in the moulding process, some of the composite T2 uprights may not have a perfect 1° integrated toe-in. The difference range is within 0.2° which means the toe-in angle may be between 0.8°~1.0° on one side and 1.0°~1.2° on the other side of the car. Though all the moulding/manufacturing process was found within the manufacturing tolerances.

XRAY has been investigating improvements to the moulding production process and the moulding design which will be incorporated into the next production batch to miminize any discrepancy and to achieve a tighter tolerance within the next production batches. Though it is important to notice that due the moulding process still some discrepancy may occur.

If you experience un-equal rear toe-in follow this simple tip that will help you to set as equal rear toe-in as possible:
Use the shims included in the "Last Aid" bag which you will find in your kit and insert a shim between the rear suspension holder and the left rear bulkhead. You should use a shim within the 0.2~0.4 range depending on the rear toe-in value you desire.

We appologize for any inconvenience and hope you will enjoy the highest performance of the T2.

How can I strengthen the top link mounting on the rear upright?

Some people have reported problems with the rear uplink tearing at the second top link mounting hole after a hard crash. To improve the rigidity and significantly reduce the chance that this occurs do the following: Screw a short 3mm set screw into the second hole until it is flush with the top.

XRAY T1 | T2 Spare Parts Cross-reference Table

Now you can download an Excel file with all spare parts for T1 and T2 and to see which part fits which version of T1 and which does not.

The navigation is very easy. Use the drop menu in the top, to filter the selection. For example if you want to filter only Spare Parts for T2, use the drop menu in column XRAY T2 and select "x".

You can make also combinations, for example to see which option parts fit T2 and T1FK'05. In this case use the drop menu in column T2 and T1FK'05 and select "o" in both columns. There are many other combinations you can choose from to fit what you have been looking for.

Enjoy the XRAY customer service.

- XLS file

How do I check and fix chassis tweak?

Chassis tweak is nothing more than the bottom chassis plate being suspended in a 'twisted' fashion by the rest of the parts making up the whole chassis unit. This happens when the bulkheads become slightly misaligned between the chassis and the top deck, due to excessive force being applied from something like a hard crash. Unfortunately, the tension from the mounting screws will keep the chassis fixed in this state until all of the screws mounting the bulkheads to the other chassis parts are loosened and tightened back up in an orderly fashion. Here are directions on how to check for chassis tweak and correct it.

Checking for chassis tweak:

1. Place the chassis on two downstop (droop) gauge blocks of equal height
2. Center each block directly beneath the front and rear axles
3. Using your thumb and a finger from one hand, press down on the outside tips of the shock tower furthest away from you and hold it down firmly while performing the next step
4. Use a finger from your other hand to press down and release EACH side (separately) of the shock tower facing you and see if the chassis seems to rock in a cater-corner fashion, or if there is a sliver of light that appears and goes away between the bottom of the chassis and either edge of the block on the side that your pushing down and releasing. If you notice the chassis rocking or any light in between the block and the chassis, then your chassis has become 'tweaked', or twisted.

De-tweaking the chassis:

1. Loosen the following screws to a point where they have a small amount of play

• Screws securing both shock towers to the aluminum upper clamps
• Screws securing the chassis, both top decks and the four aluminum upper clamps (shock tower mounts) to the bulkheads

2. Carefully, and with controlled/light force, twist the chassis back and forth a few times until it lays flat on the blocks (use the steps above to check)
3. Tighten the screws back up to where they have only a slight amount of tension
4. Systematically tighten each of the following screw groups in the order given, being careful not to strip them and while periodically checking for chassis tweak on the blocks

Note: If tightening one of the groups of screws makes the chassis tweak again, then loosen up that group very slightly, twist the chassis until there is no more tweak (check using the blocks), and tighten them back up

group 1 - secures the chassis to the bottom of all four bulkheads
group 2 - secures the forward top deck to the top of all four bulkheads
group 3 - secures the rear top deck to the top of the rear bulkheads
group 4 - secures the aluminum upper clamps to all four bulkheads
group 5 - secures the shock towers to the aluminum upper clamps

Tips for Removing Tweak from the T2 Chassis




Quality assurance:
XRAY graphite parts are manufactured in-house on highly-accurate German CNC-operated machinery using special production tools which ensure that all correlative holes are drilled within the highest tolerance and in the proper locations. Every T2 chassis is inspected and controlled during production on a special checking tool that ensures that all holes are manufactured correctly and in line. As such, all holes on the chassis are perfectly straight and in line with bulkheads. Additionally, flatness of each chassis is controlled and inspected after the bulkheads are assembled to the chassis. With the specific production process and several control and inspection procedures being used, all chassis are correctly manufactured, flatness is well within RC industry tolerance standards, and bulkheads are mounted tweak-free.


Tweak inspection:

The T2 chassis features the Multi-Flex Technology cut-outs which make the chassis more flexible and thus more demanding for precise installation of bulkheads to the chassis as well as to the top deck. It is important to note that the screws have certain manufacturing tolerances and the heads of screws may be slightly eccentric and therefore after the bulkhead is assembled to the chassis may have some tension in certain parts; however, this tension is very minor and will not cause any tweak. If some excessive tweak is present, check if some screw heads are significantly out-of-center, and replace the screws as required.



Using XRAY Products only:

For best performance, we strongly recommend using only unmodified Authentic XRAY Products to avoid tweak, as all XRAY parts share the same high production tolerances and are created to work together.



Non-countersunk top deck:

The T2 platform is very different than previous T1 platforms, and a non-countersunk top deck was determined to be the best and most logical choice to achieve the intended results and performance. We suggest not to modify the top deck. Also, use of an aftermarket countersunk top deck may introduce undesired effects, including tweak.

The non-countersunk top deck - after correct installation to the bulkheads and after correct screw tightening - insures that the chassis is tweak-free and provides the desired optimum flexibility.



REMOVING TWEAK AFTER A CRASH
If you crash and your car becomes tweaked, follow this handy tip how to remove the tweak:



1. Use the HUDY set-up board, which is ultimately flat and is a “must have” basic environment for car setup. Checking for tweak on another non-HUDY board may result that tweak will be checked on an uneven surface which may show that the car is tweaked even if it is not. Experience has shown that some other aftermarket boards (for example, those made from Plexiglas or aluminum) are not flat and checking the car on these boards may show a tweaked car even if it is not tweaked. Therefore it is suggested to use only the ultimately flat HUDY set-up board #108201.
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2. Place the T2 on the Hudy Droop Gauges (#107702) in the place where front and rear bulkheads are. Verify that your droop gauges are clean and smooth. If any debris (CA glue, etc) is on the gauges, this may result in uneven results.
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3. Release the screws of the top deck. The released tension will allow the chassis and top deck to return to their normal standard flat position.
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4. Retighten the screws only slightly, not fully.
5. To tighten the screws slightly, start with the screws at the front v of the top deck. When tightening the screws in the front of the top deck, push on the chassis through the front shock tower. Tighten the screws lightly.
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6. When tightening the screws in the rear, push on the top of the rear bulkheads so you push the car against the droop gauges.
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7. If the chassis is flat and lays flatly on the droop gauges, then it is correct. Now tighten all screws fully. Again follow the same proccedure.
When tightening the screws fully in the front of the top deck, push on the chassis through the front shock tower.
When tightening the screws fully in the rear, push on the top of the rear bulkheads so you push the car against the droop gauges.

If the chassis is not flat then repeat this procedure again.
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REMOVING TWEAK FROM OTHER SOURCES


After you set the chassis flat on the droop gauges but it still seems tweaked use the HUDY Tweak Station which will instantly discover any tweak. If you have the chassis flat on the droop gauges then the tweak comes from some other source. There are other factors which can influence and create tweak.

TIP: To fully understand the theory, how to identify and how to adjust the Tweak using HUDY Tweak Station, read the XRAY T2 Set-up Book pages 20~23.

Here are typical factors that can create tweak:

SHOCK ABSORBERS

The most important factor for a tweak-free car is to have left with right shocks set up perfectly equal with springs. Both pairs of shocks must have:

• same rebound
• same compression of springs
• same oil viscosity
• same amount of holes open
• same shock mounting position on arm and shock tower

TIP: To fully understand the theory about shocks, read the XRAY T2 Set-up Book pages 30~32.
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BATTERY ASSEMBLY TWEAK

Problem: The batteries are overtightened and are deforming the chassis.

Solution: If you use the optional Graphite Battery Strap release the locking wheel slightly, so the battery strap sits freely and can slightly move.
If you use the tape, reinstall it again.


Problem: There is insufficient play between the batteries and battery strap (when used as an optional part).

Solution: In this case, file the battery slots to allow more play of the batteries when placed on the chassis.
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TWEAKED ANTI-ROLL BAR

Problem: Your front and/or rear anti-roll bars are tweaked (when used as an optional part). To check if an anti-roll bar is tweaked, first remove the wheels, and then put the car on the flat setup board so the suspension is not in contact with the board (you may have to use downstop blocks). Slowly lift the left suspension and note how high you have to lift it before the right suspension starts to lift. Repeat this for the right side. If the left and right suspensions do not start to lift at the same height, the anti-roll bar is tweaked.

Solution: Change the length of one or both anti-roll bar linkages. The side that reacts the slowest (that is, the side that has to be raised the most before the other side comes up) needs a longer linkage, or the other side needs a shorter linkage.

TIP: To fully understand the theory and how to adjust the Tweak through anti-roll b ars, read the XRAY T2 Set-up Book page 23.
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UNEVEN DOWNSTOPS

Problem: Your left and right downstops are not equal. This makes the car handle like it is tweaked and the HUDY Tweak Station will evaluate this unevenness as tweak.

Solution: Set the downstops on both left and right side equally in front and/or rear through the downstop screws. Typical downstop setting is 5 or 6. For measuring and adjusting the downstops use the HUDY Droop Gauge #107712.

TIP: To fully understand the theory and how to adjust the Droop, read the XRAY T2 Set-up Book pages 10~11.
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ADJUSTING TWEAK USING SPRING PRELOAD

Problem: Incorrectly adjusted springs can result in one side of the car being firmer or higher than the other, causing difference when turning left or right.

Solution: Adjusting tweak using spring preload should be done only after all other items have been checked and corrected.

!!! Adjusting tweak using spring preload is an advanced set-up procedure and therefore it is strongly suggested that you read and fully understand the details on this set-up procedure in the XRAY T2 Set-up Book on page 22.
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UNEQUAL RIDE HEIGHT

Problem: Unequally adjusted ride height may result in a tweaked car. To check your current setting of the ride height use the HUDY Ride Height Tool #107715.

Solution: Adjust the ride height through shock preloads so it is equal on left and right side under the chassis.

TIP: To fully understand the theory and how to adjust the Ride Height, read the XRAY T2 Set-up Book pages 8~9.
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BENT BULKHEADS

Problem: In the event of a very serious crash the bulkheads may bend slightly and this may result in tweak.

Solution: Replace any bulkheads which seem to be bent.
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TIP: CHASSIS SCREW TIGHTENING

When tightening screws from the bottom of the chassis, initially you should only tighten them slightly. Afterwards, tighten all screws fully.
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UN-TWEAKED CAR


After you set the chassis flat on the droop gauges and check for the other sources of tweak and remove any present tweak, your car should be perfectly tweak-free. To verify your tweak-free car, use the HUDY Tweak Station.

Check for tweak after each run.

Should I cut every other tooth on the belts or the pulleys?

No.

While some believe the drive-train will be even more free than it already is, testing has shown there is no noticeable advantage. In fact doing this will make your belts wear much quicker and often leads to the belts skipping. To counter the skipping effect you could run the belt tighter but this will increase the drag instead of decreasing it.

The best way to reduce friction in the drive-train is to run the belts as loose as possible without them skipping. It is also possible to make the belts more flexible by rubbing them lightly in WD40 or soaking them in WD40 for a couple of minutes. This will also lead to more wear on the belts, but they can still be run loose without them skipping.

TECH TIP: Reinforcing Rear Hub Camber Link Holes

To prevent the rear upright screw holes from breaking in a serious crash, thread an M3x5 setscrew into the hole beside the hole used for the camber link screw.



1. Remove the camber link screw.



2. Install an M3x5 setscrew into the adjacent hole.



3. Reconnect the camber link to the rear upright.

TECH TIP: Suspension Unbinding

1.

1. On rare occasion the T2 suspension may become after initial assembly slightly bound. Use the following simple process to help to unbind the suspension.

2.

2. Using the handle of a lightweight tool (such as a HUDY screwdriver shown here), lightly tap the bound suspension arm from the rear.

3.

3. Repeat this process until the suspension moves freely again.

XRAY T2 007 Multi-Flex Technology™ Settings

Multi-Flex Technology for rubber tire racing: Due to the fact that rubber tire racing does not require extra-stiff settings, the EU edition car will allow you to set the flex anywhere between soft, medium and stiff, all directly on the car without exchanging or replacing any parts.







Multi-Flex Technology for foam tire racing: For foam tire racing, due to very high grip conditions, the soft setting has never been used and thus the flex settings possibilities were pushed more towards the ultra-stiff end of the spectrum. Thanks to the new optimised Multi-Flex Technology the US edition car can be set anywhere between medium, stiff and ultra-stiff.

Height-Adjustable Body Mounts



XRAY presents new height-adjustable body posts for the T2 and NT1. For serious racers who focus on small details, body height plays a very important role in the performance of the car and as such ultra-fine body height tuning was developed by XRAY R&D engineers to address this increasingly important tuning set-up feature.



The body posts are a direct replacement for the standard body posts in the T2 and NT1, while the body holders have the elevated mounting. This makes body height adjustment very easy and comfortable. In a few short seconds and clicks, you can exchange the body holders to adjust body height.

There are two different body-height adjustment possibilities: +1mm and +2mm. The new body-height adjustable body posts are available separately in a pair of front and rear, allowing for independent front and rear body height adjustments. Looking for cutting edge, fine-tuning adjustment? Now you have it.





The body mount set includes extra robust 6mm-thick bodyposts moulded from special XRAY composite material which is ultra lightweight yet very durable and fl exible to minimize breakage if the car flips or crashes. The beefy body posts are easily mounted to the car and include the necessary hardware to mount the body holders. For easy identification the new height adjustable body holders have been stamped +1 or +2mm for instant recognition. Easy and smart.

Effects of Shock Damping - Correction

In a recent review of various XRAY Set-up Books, we determined that some information about the effects of shock damping would benefit from minor clarification. As such, tables entitled “Effects of Shock Damping” have been updated in the following books:

• T2 Set-up Book, page 32, Effects of Shock Damping

• NT1 Set-up Book, page 10, Effects of Shock Damping

As always, we at XRAY continually strive to bring the up most accurate and up-to-date information about car set-up so you can get the most out of your race cars.

New Ultra-Fine Droop & Ride Height Gauge

HUDY presents new #107714 ultra-fine chassis droop gauge for 1/10 nitro and electric touring cars and new #107716 ultra-fine chassis ride height gauge for 1/10 nitro and electric touring cars:





• chassis droop gauge for 1/10 nitro and electric touring cars
• allows ultra-fine and very precise adjustment of front/rear droop
• droop range (4.0-6.6mm) within most frequently used settings
• super-precise increments of 0.2mm (standard droop gauges typically use 1.0mm increments)
• CNC-machined, high-quality lightweight duraluminum
• elox-coating for smooth, long-lasting finish
• lightened sides for more comfortable grip
• fine engraved HUDY logo and scale
• scale engraved on both sides for easy viewing and use
• most precise droop gauge tool on the market
• a "must have" for professional racers
• must be used with #107702 Chassis Support Blocks for 1/10








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• chassis ride height gauge for 1/10 nitro and electric touring cars
• allows ultra-fine and very precise adjustment of front/rear ride height
• ride height range (3.8-8.0mm) within most frequently used ride height settings
• super-precise increments of 0.2mm in the most frequently-used range (standard ride height gauges typically use 1.0mm increments)
• CNC-machined, high-quality lightweight duraluminum
• elox-coating for smooth, long-lasting finish
• fine-engraved HUDY logo and scale
• scale engraved on top of steps for easy viewing and use
• most precise ride height gauge on the market
• a "must have" for professional racers

What are the comparable cSt ratings of the original shock oil 'wt' ratings?

20W (309520) = 100cSt (359210)
25W (309525) = 200cSt (359220)
30W (309530) = 350cSt (359235)
35W (309535) = 600cSt (359260)
40W (309540) = 1000cSt (359301)
50W (309550) = 2000cSt (359302)

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Tech Tip: Graphite Grease for Drive Shafts



We strongly recommend using #106210 HUDY Graphite Grease for the drive shaft coupling, especially
for the front drive shafts. When the coupling is not greased it may cause wheel vibration when full steering is used.



Therefore it is very important to grease the couplings very often in order to remove wheel vibrations.



When building the drive shafts, start by greasing the coupling and inserting it into the shaft as shown.



Then install pin into the drive axle in order to connect the drive axle to the shaft.



It is very important to use thread lock for the hex screw, otherwise the screw may unscrew.
Use only a small amount of medium-grade (blue) thread lock on the screw.



After applying threadlock to the screw, install the screw as shown. Remove any excess threadlock.

XRAY Oil Conversion Table