Weeelll, Chipmunk does have a point. And it is answered as follows:
After I have setup the car completely (ride height, toe-in, camber, downstops etc.) using the Hudy tools I put the car full race ready (excluding the body so I am able to reach the downstop screws) onto the setup board. I put the car on the edge of the board with the front (or rear, depending on which side I'm checking) and using the 1mm allen key in the middle bumper screw I slowly lift the front (or rear) upwards until the wheels lift of the board. If they do not lift at the same time I increase the downstop on notch (minimal turn on the screw) on the side that lifted last and decrease the downstop on the side that lifted first until they are equal. I do this to both sides. This prevents tweaks during cornering.
If the difference was big compared to the base setting done with the droop gauge then this indicates that either there is a tweak in the chassis (undo top deck, put car on droop blocks and retighten the top deck) or that the dampers are no longer equal (rebuild dampers).
The reason I do it this way is that even if you set the downstops using the droop gauge with the dampers on the setting is not perfect unless the car is equally ballanced when sitting on the ground. Doing it without the dampers allows me to spot tweak/damper problems better as this way the setting is exact compared to the chassis. Note that the chassis has to be untweaked before setting the downstops.
The easiest way to spot the tweak is to set the car onto the droop blocks making sure the tyres are off or at least not touching the setup board. Also make sure the droop blocks are not touching any of the screws (just the chassis itself). Now feel on both sides of each block whether it can move freely. If it can the chassis is tweaked and you need to loosen the top deck and then retighten.
Hope I was making sense as there is a lot of stuff in here
