I just became very upset that I couldn't get a T2 from the first batches, and finally did my version of "T1.5" from the FK05
The main points that changed:
- 0.75 mm lower inside suspension connecting points (A-arms and upper links)
- Flexible upper deck (adviced by Martin Hudy)
- Multiple flexibility settings on main chassis - like the T2
- Everything is lowered by 0.75mm, except for the motor (0.5mm) and the upper deck (1 mm) resulting in lower CG.
- Fast and easy spur gear change - no need to re-tweak, needs only 2-3 mins.
I tried the new car on our local race at this weekend (3 qualification heats, 3 finals), in the 12T modified category.
Despite of the unlucky start - the car needs a bit different setup from the original FK05, so I couldn't make a healthy lap in the 1st and 2nd heats, finally I could find a consistent setup.
During the finals the car became better and better. Finally I could finish on the 3rd place only, but the fastest lap was mine, which seems a very good result for the 1st time, considering that I've thrown the qualification heats into the wastebin.
Main differences in car handling:
- This was the 1st time I felt the car really well balanced
- My main problem has solved with FK05: now I could apply full throttle at the apex of the corners, and the car didn't push, it could be precisely driven on the ideal driving line.
So the changes:
1. Upper deck by Martin Hudy:
2. The main 2.5mm chassis is cut at the front and the rear like the T2. One screw can be removed from the bulkheads to make the chassis more flexible.
3. Rear bulkhead - All legs of the bulkheads are milled 0.75 mm shorter, and one leg is 0.5 mm more shorter - this is the middle leg of front and the front leg of the rear bulkheads. You can see on the picture that the bulkhead's leg does not reach the chassis. When using this screw, I have to use a 0.5mm xray alu spacer between the chassis and bulkhead.
Top deck mount surfaces are milled by an additional 0.25 mm lower, so chassis - top deck distance is 1mm less than on the original car.
4. The motor mount is milled by 0.5-0.5 mm top and bottom, plus it is milled at the bottom to have two legs and not to fit the chassis with full length. The telemetry temperature sensor is also built into the motor mount. The upper deck needed a small modification to fit the motor.
5. Spur change -
- 1. Remove the telemetry RPM sensor.
- 2. Remove the screw securing plastic bearing holder.
- 3. The inner edge of the bearing holder is simply cut in level to the bulkhead's surface, so I can just push the axle to the right side and remove bearing with holder.
- 4. Just bend the spur with axle and remove spur screws. I have to loosen/remove the motor mount to have enough space to put the spur out of the axle. That's 3 more screws only - the whole things takes maximum 3 minutes, and You don't need to re-check setup and re-tweak car.
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