XRAY - Model racing cars

Hey everyone,
I recently purchased a used 2013 Xray T4 as I'm looking to do some USGT racing around central Indiana. I've been scouring the forums trying to learn as much as possible! I was wondering what are some essential upgrades that this car needs? Most people have told me that practice and more practice is the best upgrade for a beginner. I did notice the chatter at high steering angles so I think DCJ's will be one of my first upgrades. I'm having a hard figuring out what exactly I'll need to perform this upgrade. Here's the two options I've come up with. Let me know if any parts aren't needed or if I'm missing anything.

Option 1
(2) ECS drive shafts 50 mm (305225) or 52 mm (305227). Is one recommended over the other?

(2) ECS drive shaft case (305250)

(2) ECS drive shaft coupling (305251_

(1) Set of ECS drive shaft pins (305390)

Option 2
(2) ECS 50mm (305325) or 52 (305327)

Option 3
Aftermarket ECS/DCJ. I've been having trouble finding any aftermarket DCJs in stock for the 2013 T4. DCJs and ECS essentially do the same thing, correct?

The second option seems/looks easier than buying all the individual components. What else would I need? Also, are there any tips/tricks or simple modifications that I can do to make this car faster and/or easier to drive? I've been reading through the 300 page Xray thread on RCtech trying to learn as much as possible but still have a few hundred pages to go. Thanks for all the help in advance!

Have you run it at a race meeting? That is when you get a feel for things. If you notice chatter from the front shafts there is a good chance you have too much throw on your servo. Try reducing your EPA, if you need full steering you may have too much rear grip, try no additive, stiffer rear springs, or stiffer rear roll bar.
The ES Xray ESC shafts are a good part to have and 52mm will probably do for every condition in ETA

Hi RickyBobby,

ECS/DCJ (same thing) is really the first and most critical upgrade to make. As Beale suggested, I would agree that 52mm is best because they are less likely to break the spool cups if you use composite. I would suggest getting the ES version, also as Beale mentioned. The ES version is way more durable, however will require purchase of the new caster blocks because they are slightly larger and will rub the c-hub otherwise. I would advise against aftermarket DCJs because they will require a 3mm wide bearing on the inside of the steering block, and even though the narrower bearing is on the inside of the block, it will still blow out & become crunchy very fast.

Here are part numbers for the ideal setup for option 2:

52mm ECS assembly (Part No. 305332)
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/produc ... ategoria=0
(this link provides some build tips which are great for ensuring smooth and long-lasting operation)

Composite C-Hub Right - 4* - Medium (Part No. 302363)
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/produc ... -%20Medium

Composite C-Hub Left - 4* - Medium (Part No. 302364)
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/produc ... -%20Medium

No problem. When you get the C-Hubs, make sure they have "ECS" stamped on one side of them. The ones marked with "ECS" are the newest and will fit the ES ECS. If it does not have "ECS" stamped on it, the ES axle will rub slightly during cornering.

If you have a setup station, you may check your endpoints on there. Generally I set the inside front wheel to stop at 29* of throw. So when you turn the wheel left on the setup station, the left side will point to 29*. Set both sides to 29* and you'll be good with the ECS'.

Edit: I tried to attach a pic of an ECS with the stamp on it, but couldn't for some reason.