XRAY - Model racing cars

Well, as the title says, I've just received my T4 and am stoked. Seeing as this is my first XRay product, and first on road car, it is all new to me ... so I thought I'd ask for any build tips that anyone might have. Things to look out for, things to check, where to take extra time and care, etc ...

Anything would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

Luke

Only thing I can think of is to make sure the wishbones move nice a freely around the pivot pins.

The pins will be held tight, it's the wishbones that should move around them.

Skiddins

I would put some hex screws through the bottom holes of the suspension to mount them to the arms. I will post some pics when i get home. The grub screw that xray uses can work loose, especially at speed. I did something similiar to the top. Also make sure you are running the right oil, last week i was 5th in the A finals with kit oil, this week I was 1st by 2 laps in the A finals with 3000cst oil in the diffs, right oil is a really important adjustment I found!

also servo saver, think there is a thread someone on how to build, its the only difficult part on the car to build!

1. Ditto the servo saver; my son actually built that and did find it fiddly but succeeded in the end.

2. Personally I have never had a problem building the shocks but you will find a variety of threads on the forum about it and in particular setting the desired rebound. I have always got mine right at first attempt on all shocks 9 times out of 10.
After a few goes I am sure you will get the knack. If you check the threads make sure they are referring to the same shocks you have, i.e. kit plastic shocks vs. upgrade aluminium shocks (I could be wrong but am assuming the T4 comes with plastic shocks).

3. Not sure about the comment on the suspension lower mounting points. I have been building and racing XRAY T cars for 6 years and never had one come loose. Maybe that is a feature of indoor racing which I do not do.

4. Gear diff oil. This is something you really need to experiment with as we all have different views. I would suggest you try 1000cst and 2000cst. If you prefer the 2000 then get some 3000cst and try that. I get the impression that the majority prefer 2000 although I prefer 1500. Could be different outdoors vs. indoors. It may well differ dependant on your setup/track conditions/driving style.

5. Do not over-tighten the hex screws going into composite parts as you will increase the risk of stripping the thread. I hold the driver loosely between forefinger and thumb and as soon as some resistance is felt my fingers slip around the driver; time to stop.

6. A reamer is a useful tool if you do find your suspension arms are binding on the bar. Alternatively a slowly revolving drill built will do – check this before mounting the bar. If they bind when mounted then hitting the suspension arm either towards the centre of the car (longitudinally) or to the outside of the car (longitudinally) normally works (sorry I cannot recall which way around it should be).

Thanks so much everyone. Excellent tips and feedback. Keep em coming.

Never had a T4 but am ready to purchase a 14 model as an upgrade to my T3 12 (still run T2 009 outdoor) Only advice I can give is any questions you get from building/ testing/ racing put them up here and there will be an experienced regular/team driver answering or helping almost instantly.

There is a pictured documentation (written in German) of a XRAY T4 build up. In one of these pictures, you can see how to assemble the servo saver more easy.

http://buggy-sport.eu/en/startseite/10- ... ht-xray-t4

Regarding the shock mounts, I had never problems with loosen screws. There is a female thread in the screws and you can tighten the screws easily with a hex driver. I remember, the documentation about that is not very detailed.

Greetings

Jörg

Thanks!!