XRAY - Model racing cars

hi to all i recently bought and built t3 2012 to replace my t3 2010 all seemed ok when i went to my club night i race on indoor carpet i drove car down straight slowly to check to see if steering was straight it was ( i set car up on setup guages before hand ) but when i started to go faster in practice on full throttle car was veering of and had to keep steering on radio to keep car straight apart from this car is great but i was 1-2 laps faster with my t3 2010 then this one due to the car veering of slightly down the straight any ideas ? car is set up for carpet as in manual 25 % shock rebound thanks

strange, did you check the tweak?

the way i check for tweak is put chassis on setup blocks front and rear of chassis and press down on front and rear to see any movement is this correct and there is no movement at all ? thanks

Did you check if the spring retainer is in its correct position.

Happened to me once or twice that the retainer wasn't in the most downward position on the shock.

thanks guys for the tips went through all the tips all seem ok spring retainers are all at the bottom i did have one shock with 50% rebound rest at 25% so have reset the one shock the tyres wernt to bad but i did notice on the front edge tyres had come away from the wheel rim so have reglued all the tyres off racing tonight so see if there is any difference

thanks guys for info car was still not very good at last night club night so stripped car down when i got home did find rear drive pin was sticking out one one side catching the rear hub slightly so sorted that could this be the causing the problems i have been having ?

How damaged is the inside of the rear upright? If a lot then almost certainly the problem. If not at all then quite possibly not.

hi hub did,nt have any damage car was still driving bad but last night club night mate whom also has the t3 2102 noticed top front arms were different to his he found out i had put the front c hubs on the wrong side so left was on right and right was on left of car changed them over just in time for the last heat car seemed a lot better but i was hit and broke front driveshaft so only did about 2 mins i do find the aluminum driveshafts that come with the t3 2012 seem to break easier then the steel ones

If u build the car by the instruction manual u will see the front drive shafts are the hudy spring steel ones, and the alloy are placed in then rear.
If i was u, i would rebuild the car from page 1, and make sure everything is 100%. I hope for u ur problems will be resolved soon and u can go back to the most fun part of this car, driving it

thanks guys for info i have gone through whole building process all seems ok now would it be ok to run steel 52mm driveshafts in rear aswell as the front as i have a few spare steel driveshafts but no ali ones ?

The stock rear driveshafts are 52mm so it will not be a problem since they are the same lenght. The only reason to put alloy driveshafts in the rear is for less rotating mass, and the rear doesnt have to endure the same bumps and crashes like the front driveshafts.

Always check for additional axial gap between shaft and outdrive when setting the camber. Only just a little gap for free movement is too less in case you have a hard crash. Sure, it always can happen that shafts become bent but I have bent only one (only a tad) in two years so they're of supreme quality. When using the composite front outdrives check for their play because if there's too much play the shafts pop in that grooves which have appeared. That means a kind of a double-sided fixation. In this case bending could happen very easily.