XRAY - Model racing cars

How do you build your alloy shocks. (Running the thinner bladders from the plastic bodies)

Whats the best way, The dos and Donts. Looking at 50% rebound

I build them pretty much as per normal.

When putting the O-ring in the bottom of the shock put some oil in before it and after it so that the 'chamber' with the 0-ring is full of oil as well as the o-ring and .
I also use small piece of sandpaper on the thread of the shock rod to take away any sharp edges that might damaged the O-ring as it's put through.

Never use brake/motor cleaner on silicone O-rings as it can damage them, rubber O-rings are Ok.

For rebound I fill the shock up, put the top seal on then 'stir' it with a large allen driver until it is sitting flush withthe shock body, now push the piston up and repeat the last step with the allen driver.
Now put the plastic part on with the threaded ball in it, then the shock cap.
I hold the piston in while starting to do the cap up then release once a bit of pressure builds up.
This normally give me around 70% rebound.
If not right loosen the top cap, push the piston in again and hold it for a bit longer when doing up the top cap.
If the rebound is still 100% remove the top cap and plastic part and repeat the stiring part with the allen driver and the piston pushed in.

Skiddins

I also would push up the pistons very slowly when using the standard shock caps. As with no hole in there, the oil would push under the bladder causing it going wide and cut the oil's way through the thread. This would make the shock unable to 'bleed'. The length of the shock shaft standing out of the shock body before tightening the cap is the amount of rebound you would get.