XRAY - Model racing cars

Hi everybody,

I just got me the alu shocks and I wonder how should I build them to match my T3'012 kit shocks.

I run my kit shocks with 3 holes and 350 oil as in the manual.
With the alu shocks it seems most people use tht 3-hole 1.1 plates.
Does this "matches" the kit shocks? Or is it not a good idea to try to match the kit?

Thanks,

Cypher

The kit shocks use 1.0mm pistons, the alloy use 1.1mm pistons.

At a meeting last weekend I had to change the shocks as some had air in them, the alloy shocks with 450cSt oil seemed to be very similar.

It's very hard to tell exactly as one set had slightly higher rebound but start with 450 in a pair of them and see what you think.

Skiddins

I am a little bit confused!?

I got my alu shocks now and locking at the pistons the have markings 10 11 12.
In the manual it says that the holes are 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3.

Was this changed or is the 10 the 1.1?

Do you have any way to measure the size of the holes?

How many pistons were supplied with the shocks and how many holes do they have in them?

Skiddins

Not at the moment I can see if I can get something with enough precision.

I attached two pictures. One showing all the pistons supplied and the other a close up with the markings.
Also the pistons with marking 10 doesnt seem to have nice holes.

I bought the 308306-O Alu Shock Absorber from my usual LHS.

I think the numbers indicate the holes' diameters. 1.0mm, 1.1mm and 1.2mm in 2- and 3-hole design for each shock.

Hi, I have just opened a packet of new alu shocks I bought a couple of years ago (308301)- the markings are 11,12,13. I know from my setup notes that the 308301-0 on my car also starts at 1.1. Looks like you have a mis-matched pack?

10 = 1.0
11 = 1.1
12 = 1.2

the hole between numbers represents dot if you are unsure, take caliber and check the diameter of the hole

Thanks Martin for the confirmation.
Thats what I thought and I believe you. So I dont have to measure myself.

A friend of mine bought also a set and he has the same pistons. Also he has the new package design.

Only the manual & descripton on the Xray website still tells 1.1, 1.2 & 1.3.
That was what confused me. I guess an update would be uppreciated.

Filling and bleeding of the alu shocks is really nice.
I bought the caps with the hole for rebound setting and setting 0% rebound is totally easy.

But I have some problem with the universal ball and ball joints.
On the lower ball joint the ball moves freely on nearly every shock.
On the top ball joiint they dont move freely.
I respected the shiny side etc. like in the tech tip. It is nearly the same on my 4 shocks and the 4 shocks of my friend.

Any idea how to solve this?
Is this a problem in terms of car performance?

With the plastic kit shocks I didnt have any problems with this.

Yes, the shock caps should be free in their movement. Maybe (but I don't think so) a too tight fit of the shock cap could occur by screwing on the alu nut too tight. I just close the shock by screwing it to first resistance and then close it just a little more. This also makes the membranes last very long I noticed.

Skiddins, you also could mount the ball universal to the cap, add some scrubbing milk and spin the ball universal inside the cap. So the ball universal stays smooth and you could always check the fit time by time. Heat is also no problem with the scrubbing milk applied. That's what I do if necessary.

Yes Skiddins this makes sense to me.

Maybe I combine your and Green wings proposal and polish the ball universal.
They look very matt and I thought they look different to the kit ones.
I will check this. Maybe I even try one ball universal from the kit.

Thanks guys for your support!

It's normal that the ball universal looks a little polished after some time of usage. The fit between cap and ball universal frees up after some runs and if there's just a tad of a too tight fit at the beginning I wouldn't do anything and check again after some runs.