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XRAY - Model racing cars • View topic - t3r vs t3'11

XRAY - Model racing cars

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 Post subject: t3r vs t3'11
PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 18:21:33 
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Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2011 11:02:40
Posts: 3
hi,

apart from the carbon and the orange and the anti roll bars, what else do i miss out on by buying a t3r?

are the shocks as good? bearings etc?

what about the finished weight? is a t3r any heavier?

for club racing on carpet with foams

thanks in advance


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 Post subject: Re: t3r vs t3'11
PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 17:04:07 
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Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 15:17:09
Posts: 311
Location: Frankfurt, Germany
Hello frst,

you will miss out the possibility to set the camber when the camber links are mounted. So you can't use a setup board but have to set the camber by measuring them before mounting. The front toe could be adjusted by pliers only when mounted or you can use two nuts countering each other. I've ordered the anti roll bar set for the front and the rear, the six alu turnbuckles, the steel shafts for the front and the alu shafts for the rear which brought me as close as 40€ to the T3 price. But I knew that before buying that car.

The T3R is slightly lighter than the T3 (even with the anti roll bars), the shocks are very good, the bearings are the same I guess, the T3R lasts and could be very fast, too. But on carpet you will NEED anti roll bars and maybe harder springs. On carpet I use the purple ones in the front.

But the T3R features a different ball diff. compared to the T3 which is not so easy to set. On the T3R you have to disconnect one camber link to be able to turn the hex screw. But that's no problem. Just the missing thrust bearing is "annoying". The one from the T3 doesn't fit so you have to put the seven balls between two washers and hope that they will stay in place until it's mounted. :?

When using alu shafts (stock or coated ones) in the front you have to set the endpoint of steering not by the steering knuckles as usual but by the max. CVD angle. The alu shafts are bigger in their diameter than the steel ones.

Regards,
Stefan


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 Post subject: Re: t3r vs t3'11
PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 15:27:34 
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Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 00:32:53
Posts: 45
For simplicity, id probably buy the T3. Knowing I wasn't going to have to mess around between rounds struggling to rebuild.

T3 11 can be repaired rather quickly.


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 Post subject: Re: t3r vs t3'11
PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:22:31 
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Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2009 03:00:48
Posts: 38
Location: NZ
I dont think the plastic rear diff outdrives will last very long.
I have wear in mine, I only run silvercan, only done 4 race meets with it (T3R)
Generic turnbuckles (for camber adj etc) are very cheap to buy, so cheap they should have just put them in the kit.

I may be wrong..
The T3R is based on the original T3.
T3'11 better design for lipo ??, also narrower chassis
T3'11 has the new (better ??) steering setup.


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 Post subject: Re: t3r vs t3'11
PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2011 20:29:51 
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Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 23:34:51
Posts: 169
Location: Poland, Warsaw


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