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XRAY - Model racing cars • View topic - Plastic Shocks, Rebound

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 Post subject: Plastic Shocks, Rebound
PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 10:29:15 
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Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 09:38:41
Posts: 16
Whats the best way to set rebound on theses shocks.

As the way the T3 2011 shock building intrusting are written. You end up getting air in ur shocks.


After the shock is assembled you have to set the Shock Rebound.
1. Release the shock composite lower cap.
2. VERY SLOWLY do the following: Fully pull out the shock rod, push it back in fully, and then fully pull
it out once more. Repeat this procedure the following number of times to achieve the desired Shock
Rebound setting:
10 times - approximately 75% rebound (high rebound - suggested for very low traction track)
15 times - approximately 50% rebound (medium rebound - suggested for standard track)
20 times - approximately 25% rebound (low rebound - suggested for very high traction track)
During the Rebound Adjustment procedure shock oil will leak out of the shock body through the O-ring
on the shock rod... this is normal. During the Rebound Adjustment procedure DO NOT open the upper
shock cap.



3. After you have set the Rebound Adjustment, re-install the shock lower composite cap.
4. Check the Shock Rebound setting by pushing the shock rod fully into the shock body, releasing it, and
observing how far the shock rod extends by itself:
* 25% out of the shock body (low rebound)
* 50% out of the shock body (medium rebound)
* 75% out of the shock body (high rebound).
If the shock rod rebounds too much, return to Step 1 and repeat the procedure.
If the shock rod does not rebound enough, you will have to refill the shock with shock oil, and then repeat
the bleeding and Shock Rebound procedures.



Any help would be great. Cheers


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 Post subject: Re: Plastic Shocks, Rebound
PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 11:00:48 
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team driver
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Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2004 19:27:57
Posts: 977
Location: Sweden
The way I set rebound for plastic shocks:

- Fill the shock completely with shock oil. Push the rod up and down a few times to release any trapped air bubbles. Let the shock sit for a while to release all the air, or use a shock air remover for a quicker procedure

- Add the membrane on top, then gently thread the top cap onto the shock. Some oil will be released through the top bleeding hole

- I use the HUDY 183010 shock assembly tool to loosen the bottom plastic cap

- While holding the shock upside down, I slowly push the rod into the shock a few times to get the desired rebound. It has to be done slowly and do not push it all the way in if not necessary. Some oil should leave the shock and this has to be wiped away

The key is to take your time and always hold the shock upside down so that any air bubbles still trapped can leave the shock.


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 Post subject: Re: Plastic Shocks, Rebound
PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 11:42:33 
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Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 09:38:41
Posts: 16
Thanks a lot Hagberg


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 Post subject: Re: Plastic Shocks, Rebound
PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 01:47:56 
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Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 08:14:30
Posts: 54
Location: Australia
I have an alternate way for building zero rebound, Meen V showed my friend this method at TITC.

First you need the 1mm hole in the shock cap, then...

1. Fill the shock with oil and remove any air
2. Push the piston fully into the shock
3. "Bend" the bladder slightly and insert it into the shock allowing the oil to spill, then "press" the centre of the bladder with the tip of your pinky finger - a little more oil should spill and the bladder will be held in place by the air pressure
4. Place the cap on the shock, hold the shock by both ends (i.e. shock cap and shock bottom) so that the cap is pressing down on the bladder, then tighten - there's an art to doing this, it feels like you need 6 fingers at first.

The shock should now have zero rebound and no air. I've been using this method for a while now and it works great.


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