XRAY - Model racing cars

I've just bought a new pair of ECS drive shafts and both have broken the longer pin The first one lasted 3 minutes in the first heat and the second one made it to the third heat. I currently run a T3 2011 with a 13.5 motor, previously i was running a T2 009 with a 10.5 motor with ESC drive shafts and never had this problem. These shafts were from a new batch from a popular online model shop in the UK. Is there a problem with them? both have broken the 9mm pin right at the end of the flat. Not to impressed as the nights racing was ruined and replacement pins are out of stock and i'm going to be out of pocket.

I have broken a few of them , the best thein to do is not tighten them too tight

I found this was my problem , I was bending them when tightening them

I now add some loctite to the screw before adding it to the shaft , and make sure that everything is clean as the loctite wont work

I stopped using them now as i have snapped 3 on the shafts off in the spool outdrives !!!!

They cost to much to be throwing away every week !!!!!

I just nipped the grub screws up as i have always done with my old ones which lasted one and a half years. I realise over tightening will break the pins due to the flat spot making them weaker. I've always used blue locktite which can be a bugger to get undone.

normal ones

i wanted the ones from Litemodz but they are unreliablea and dont deliver

Try the stock ones and se if you notice the differance on the track !!!!!

PS i now test a front gear diff so the ECS axles are also not needed

yeah i run 2 specR diffs\

New pins turned up today and appear to be hardened, they are black the old ones were silver. £5 for 2 pins

Where do you race YELLOWSHARK ? I've got a job for you

LOL Bilko1 as if I have not got enough to do already, still have not got around to loading 212 on my Tekin speedo

More so Bashley and less so Aldershot. Do you ever get down to Bashley or are you a carpet guy?

I also had the same issue and after some investigation discovered that overtightening the grub screw IS the cause for the pin failure. I use the replacement pins with the flat spots and just nip the grub screw. I use Loctite 222 (low strength and purple in colour) as i feel that Loctite 243 (blue in colour) is to strong for an M3 thread.

What i also do as a failsafe is apply some heatshrink over the joint as this helps keep it a bit cleaner and in the event of a pin breaking it cannot fall out, so thus no DNF's !!! I have only ever had 1 pin break since doing this and most likely due to a crash rather than fatigue. With the heatshrink on i didn't even know the pin had broken and found this during routine maintenance.

Hope this helps others