XRAY - Model racing cars

Hello Alex.
Have you used the 2мм chassis in Poland?

Hello Butuzov Alexey.

Yes, in the report's race he said use 2mm chassis and top deck.

Regards.

Hello Alex

When you say you put a 2mm shim under shock is for the top where the shock tower is or on both tower and arms that is shimmed?

Thanks

Regards
Calvin

we shim out the shocks when we want to make the car easier to drive under high grip conditions. It makes the car steer little less and roll the corner slightly smoother. When you shim the shock out on the tower, you need on the arm as well to keep the shock straight.

Tell us about the servo mount, which used the Alex
Used a double-sided adhesive tape?
Part of the chassis in place of attachment had been cut off?

In the set-up, which is published Ales says that the springs are under 2mm washers. But judging by the photos, there are thicker washers.
Is this true?

And what about the servo ???

Alex posted elsewhere that he glues the servo to the chassis using shoe goo. And runs without servo mounts. Reduces tweak in chassis im sure.

Also, wondering what servo Alex is running, looks like a larger KO servo, not the low profile ones? Would give you much greater surface area for gluing to chassis I guess and spread out any tweaking of the chassis?

without servo mounts???? at all? either the left or right?
shoe goo - is the glue? What adhesive can be replaced?

I'm sure Alex will confirm this.

Not maybe as secure as mounts but anything for a few tenths of seconds per lap!

I fixed the servo with sho-goo, no servo mounts were in use.

Hi Alex.

I understand why the front link is raised sometimes (same increase in shims at the inside and the outside of the upper link) as it helps smooth the steering out etc.
But what is the reason to do the same at the rear?
WIth your pivot block modification etc doesn't that make the rear of the car loose at all?

At the rear I normally either raise the inside up (to gain mid corner grip) or lower it for more intial.
I assume the effect on the outside is the same (but with more shims for initial, less for mid), but a smaller effect.

Does that make sense, and am I correct?

what exactly the stabilizers used?
In Set-up written rear 1.2? but the site teamxray.com written that used the stabilizer 1.4
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/news/n ... from%20ETS

And the spring .... front 2.4
and 2.6 in the setup

Where there is a right?

Application of the rear stabilizer 1.4 - because miracle springs??
When using the standard 2.4 springs, stabilizer is better to use softer?

and about glue ...
is This the glue used to install the servo
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... LXD193&P=7

The correct view is that a large servo is needed for large area bonding? Are the effects on flex?

You can also use the progressive spring in the front for more turn-in, and the normal 2.4 in the rear. On carpet, there are basically only two options for rear anti-roll bar, either 1.3 or 1.4. These are what I use for all conditions and it always works. For asphalt I prefer softer, 1.3 or 1.2 in the rear.

Yes, that is sho-goo. Allow it to dry for at least 8 hours.

I will post this question in this topic.
I just bought 2mm chassis from xray. Do i need to shim out all parts of the car( motor mount, suspension...) with 0,5 mm shims? Which shims are u using for this?

Thanks in advance!