XRAY - Model racing cars

- springs is 2.2, 2.4, 2.6, 2.8, 3.0, 3.2, 3.4
How much is that in Lbs?

- in the manual everywhere where a bearing has to be placed there is the "apply oil" logo. Are the bearings not oiled at all when in the kit, or just a bit? Do I have to wash them out first, for instance with brake cleaner before oiling them?

- how do you break in the geardiff to get it smooth before going racing with it?
You hear of all kinds of methods. Martin Crisp did it with Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound on his S411. He did it for 2 minutes, both ways, the compound just in the bottom of the diff. Some say to use toothpaste. I also heard of all kind of other carpolish products that are being used. Just to get it more smooth. What do you advise for the geardiff in the T3 '12?

- in the manual it says:"To protect and seal edges of graphite parts, sand edges smooth and then apply CA glue."
What thickness of CA?
Applying with a brush or cotton wool on a stick or right out of the package?
When the edges are sanded is the measuring of the height still correct? With the ride hide gauge you measure on the edge of the chassisplate. And there is no edge anymore.
After applying the CA do something else, for instance wet sanding or so?

-which spurs can be used when wanting to use smaller then 84T 48P or bigger than 87T 48P?

- better to build the shocks as adjustable or not adjustable?
I hear sometimes that is not that easy to get the XRay-shocks exactly the same all four.

- are there parts that need polishing? For instance pivotballs, or others

- are the antirollbar clamps all the same for all the different thicknesses of the bars?

- is art. 305392 drive shaft pin with flat spots in the kit or not?

SORRY, BUT APPARENTLY MEANS THAT YOU ARE NOT SURE YOURSELF?
If it says add oil, I would add oil

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IT WERE DEFINITELY GEARDIFFS. TALKED TO THE GUYS MYSELF. SAW SOME OF THEM DO IT. RUN IN THE GEARDIFF WITH A SUBSTANCE IN IT AS DESCRIBED ABOVE AND LET IT ROTATE FOR A WHILE TO MAKE IT SMOOTHER. BUT MAYBE XRAY GUYS DON'T DO THAT OR THE DIFF IS OF SUCH QUALITY THAT IT IS NOT NECESSARY. TYPICAL THAT I HEAR OF IT WITH MANY BRANDS OF CARS.

I built my diff, filled with oil and haven't had to refill with oil in since first built... No running in necessary

- in the manual it says:"To protect and seal edges of graphite parts, sand edges smooth and then apply CA glue."
What thickness of CA?
ANything that's pretty thin and will run around the edges
Applying with a brush or cotton wool on a stick or right out of the package?
Cotton buds, or Q-tips as the Americans call them. But fist sand, then apply some and let it run around the edge while you're holding it.
When the edges are sanded is the measuring of the height still correct? With the ride hide gauge you measure on the edge of the chassisplate. And there is no edge anymore.
After applying the CA do something else, for instance wet sanding or so?
See above. I don't do any 'wet' sanding etc as that would seal some moisture in which you don't want.
IS THE MEASURING OF THE RIDE HEIGT STILL CORRECT AFTER SANDING THE EDGES. I MEAN THE EDGE IS GONE. THE READING COULD GIVE A HIGHER RIDE HEIGT VALUE. IN CASE OF USING A STEPLESS RIDE HEIGHT GAUGE. BECAUSE YOU PLACE IT AGAINST THE EDGE, THAT ISN'T THERE ANYMORE. SO THE GAUGE GOES FURTHER UNDER THE CHASSISPLATE CONSEQUENTLY GIVING A HIGHER READING.
SO LET THE CA DRIP ON THE EDGE AND THEN RUB WITH A Q-TIP OR SO? I ASK THIS BECAUSE IN THE PAST I DIDN'T DO THAT AT ALL WITH ANY OF THE CARS I HAD.

You arte only going to round the edges slightly, so it should make virtually no difference to the ride height measurment at all, literaly fractions of a mm.
I sand first to round things off a bit, then drip the CA on and let it run around the edges, let it dry, then reapeat until you have it the way you want it.
I found that running around the edges with a Sharpie pen before using the first coat of CA glue helps make it black.

I use a Q-tip to put some CA in the countersunk holes in the chassis (to make them stronger and help stop the screw from pulling through in a crash.

Anything bigger than 86t will stick through the bottom of the chassis. I have seen down as far as 72t. Minimum tooth count 100, max is 112
SORRY, BUT I DON'T UNDERSTAND. YOU SAY 86T WIL STICK THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF THE CHASSIS. ON THE OTHER HAND YOU SAY MINIMUM TOOTH COUNT IS 100 MAX IS 112. IS THAT 100T AND 112T? IF SO THAT WOULD BE MUCH BIGGER DAN THE MAX OF 86T YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT. BUT MAYBE I AM COMPLETELY OF TRACK HERE. PLEASE HELP. I AM CONFUSED HERER BECAUSE MOD RACERS OFTEN USE BIGGER SPURS.
THE MANUAL SAYS ONLY 84T AND 87T. WHAT BRAND WIL FIT FOR XRAY T'3 '12 WHEN WANTING OTHER SIZES? FOR INSTANCE 78T OR 81T OR SO?

The tooth count is when you add the number of teeth on the spur with the number on the pinion. EG. with an 86t spur the smallest pinion that would fit would be a 14t (100t count) the largest would be 26t (112 count).
This is all using 48dp.

- better to build the shocks as adjustable or not adjustable?
Non adjustable
I hear sometimes that is not that easy to get the XRay-shocks exactly the same all four.

- are there parts that need polishing? For instance pivotballs, or others
I do polish the pivot balls slightly just to make sure they wont stick at all
OTHER PARTS?
What other parts? I only do the shock pivot balls as I recall.

What brand(s) of 48P spurgears can be used on T3 '12 other than partnumber 305784 84T/48P and partnumber 305787 87T/48P.
So not the teethcount but other suppliers of spurs that fit T3 '12.
And as to pinions 48P?

I think you guys are wrong on the bearings and oiling. The T2 kits always had their bearings pre-oiled. If you buy a bearing set they come pre-oiled, eg.

XRay 309001 T3 2011 Ball bearing set (20)

These ball-bearings are fitted with special polyamid blue covers, and are degreased and lightly oiled with AeroShell™ Fluid 12 oil for maximum smoothness, long life, highest tolerance and maximum

I find it difficult to believe the T3 series does not come with pre-oiled bearings. I have built and raced a T1R, T2 ("006"), T2'008 (2 of), T2'009 and have never oiled bearings new out of the box and never had a problem. I am in the middle of my 1st T3 build, ie a 12 and have no intention of oiling the bearings. Time will tell if I am right or wrong

Kensai; you have to remove the blue covers to oil the bearings. I do this by using a knife you would buy in a craft shop (such as Exacto) with replaceable blades. Sorry I am not sure what the name of the knife would be. The important bit is that the blades are VERY thin. Push the point in between the cover and outer race and gently ease the cover off - take care and you can do this without damaging the cover. When replacing them just use slight finger pressure to seat the cover but not put pressure on the balls.

Skiddens; yup I know it is perhaps not totally clear. The T2 series instruction manuals had exactly the same comment about oiling bearings but I always took that as a maintenance comment. BECAUSE some years ago this subject was discussed on the forum and it was stated that the bearings were pre-oiled; I do stress that that was some years ago and yes things do change, but the fact that replacement (not option) bearings are pre-oiled makes me think things have not changed.
It is of course complicated more by others who like to strip the ball diffs and re grease them when they are greased by XRAY before shipment. At the end of the day some people like to pull things apart and redo them so they are sure they are to their liking; nothing wrong with that but personally I have never seen the point with that when using new parts from XRAY.

Thanks for your input y'all.
So to put an end to this discussion.
The bearings as in the kit are pre-oiled?
In spite of the fact that in the manual the "Apply oil" logo is printed everywhere bearings are to be used.

You ask what I want.
The only thing I want is clearness.
And the manual doesn't provided that, AT ALL!

One guy told me on this thread that they were pre oiled with Shell oil.
If that is the case than I don't think that it is wise to put your own bearingoil together with that.
If using your own bearingoil is an option, and the bearings are oiled in the kit, than the bearings would have to be cleaned out before relubing them again.

The only I thing asked was if I had to oil them or not, as they are in the kit.
And why did I ask that?

BECAUSE IN THE MANUAL EVERYWHERE A BEARING IS TO BE USED THE "APPLY OIL" LOGO IS PRINTED.

So my quenstion isn't that weard. It is just common sense!

Maybe I must not buy me T3 '12 afterall. I'll have to rethink in which direction I have to point my money.

Try to PM Martin Hudy and ask directly.

....Then post what he says here

I wouldn't get too hung up on the oiling.

I believe the bearing do come pre-oiled with Aeroshell, which is a light, high-speed bearing lube. However, I ALWAYS add a drop of bearing oil at the first build and this will do no harm. You need to oil bearings on a regular basis, especially if you have cleaned the car with brake cleaner or compressed air. The bearings are not totally sealed and will lose oil over time, you also need to clean them. This is a routine maintenance item in my book (before every race meeting i.e. weekly). I do not remove the blue sealing rings for oiling, but have done so for a "major strip / service / clean". I have generally found that once a bearing feels "gritty", no amount of cleaning removes this, and they should be replaced. "Generic" bearings work just as well as the branded XRay ones IMHO.

The wheel bearings take the most strain, it is rare to need to replace the layshaft or diff main bearings.

If using a ball diff, the thrust washer definitely needs regular cleaning and re-greasing

HTH

LOL as normal we all do it differently. Well said though Charles, not a reason for getting the best car on the market. Let us hope Kensai does not ask how easy it is to re-oil the shocks