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XRAY - Model racing cars • View topic - drive train tips and tricks

XRAY - Model racing cars

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 Post subject: drive train tips and tricks
PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 03:02:38 
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2004 01:22:25 
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Ive been running a clipped belt with the diffs in the factory settings for tightness for all this time and have not have any problems. And yes it does make it more free. As in if its any faster that depends on how clean of a run you can get. LOL


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2004 05:14:09 
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The low-ratio pullies are the 18 tooth right?

I'm running the Evo2 w/ the center one-way, front one-way, and rear ball diff. It has the silver adjustable tension bulkheads. I can't seem to get the belts tight enough. The front belt sags and rest on the top deck. The rear belt skips HORRIBLY and rest on the motor can. When I accelerate, the rear belt makes a terrible noise and give even worse acceleration. I moved the notch on the bearing holder to the rear slot, and it didn't tighten at all. I need some advice.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2004 06:39:25 
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do you have the low ratio pulleys installed, if soo you need to run the the diff pulleys which are 32t and the layshaft pulleys which are the 18t, you have to run these together in conjuction with eachother, or you rbelt will not tighten, the low ration layshaft pulleys will be quite a bit larger than your stockones, to tighten your belt, even though i did not need it on my t1r, looking at the out side of either front bulk head, rotate th enotch conter clockwise , same with rear, any other questions feel free to ask i installed my pulleys today and they made a huge differance, so far i got the pulleys and an graphite 6 cell chasis for my t1r, i plan to get the short arms as well.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2004 06:48:28 
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thanx apex


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2004 13:55:22 
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Could you post a picture showing the diff pulleys with teeth removed please?


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