XRAY - Model racing cars

Hi guys,

Great to ask for feedback. Really like that

In general i like the NT1, there's been number of improvements over the years which all helped out (like harder clutch springs, harder 2speed springs, 1degree steering block, new bell tentioner, etc..).

I think the car is pretty complete, but there are some things i'd like to point out:

1. The flex in the chassis is pretty much, the 4mm chassis helps and the alu radio-tray mounts help, but i've been using an optional part long before xray came with it. I think the chasis needs to be stiffer. I also know this is part of the success for xray, as it makes the car very easy. I also noticed some 3mm optional chassis for different cars are actually stronger then the 4mm chassis from xray. I think that's pretty weird
In all my time racing, i've never broken a shock mount (the carbon) but i have 2 bend chassis.....

2. I'd like more options.
- length of the front upper arms (keeping the normal rollcenter changes that are possible their)
- length of the lower rear arms
- I really like the way the mugen has it's lower a-arms connected (like an electric car). I think it makes it more easy to get the rear lower arms with less play and make the length change + squat possible.
- less big changes on the rear upper link (rollcenter) The inside changes are pretty big.
- Wheel base changeable. So make it possible to move forward and backwards the lower arms. This would also require more space on the front caster settings.

3. Clutch. The clutch flyweights wear out pretty fast. (the hols loosen). On the normal clutch, its super important to get the bearings right (no play).
I haven't tried the new clutch (high dynamic) but i feel the old one needs some improvements for the normal racer. like the alu clutch bell, wears out too fast (although that is good!). For pro-racers, replacing parts isn't that big of and issue, but for the hobby driver, it sucks

4. Pulleys:
- make holes to dirt can be pushed out.
- Also, it seems hard to get the front pulley and exhaust spring good and save. The exhaust spring has little space.

5. I have replaced several front bulkheads because the screws are worn out and i can't fix the radio plate any more. I think this is important for the flex of the chassis, as mounting the radio-tray securely is important.

6. Braking. There can be some improvements made on that part. In the beginning we didn't use the brake pads from xray. Now i have the KM-brake pads and the xceed brake disk. It finally works correctly, but it's also hard to get correct because of the way the brake leaver works.


Well, that's about it
Don't get me wrong, i'm very happy with the car right now


Oh, and sorry for not pointing out 5 good things and making it 6 improvement points :S

Don't get me wrong, i really like the xray!!

Hi to all at the Hudy factory,

thank you very much for this great car --- I've a lot of fun with this fine peace of design, engineering and quality!

5 things I like about the car:

-- nice and modern designed box, perfect illustrated instruction manual and large and easy to understand setup book

-- really easy to drive in standard assembly and with standard setup, easy gear meshing

-- all parts are stable and suitable for their function, easy and quick to replace if necessary

-- lightweight design with a low centre of gravity, possibility for custom made tuning

-- spirit of xray team and drivers: you can get help for every question on every race track


5 things I would like propose to change:

-- thicker O-ring in the differential for easier assembly and better tightness

-- more constant production on the shock parts; e.g. the rubber caps have sometimes different thickness and by this the spring behaviour is different; e.g. the small foam parts in the rubber caps have sometimes different height; e.g. the plastic shock bodies have tolerances so the alu cap isn't always easy to screw on; front shocks should be rectangular to the car (now inclined about 10 degrees)

-- further steps for lowering the center of gravity again, ask me for details

-- new break; the actual break with a pin is to simple for this highend car; Perhaps a break with a kind of tweezers to press both pads towards the disk.

-- two pins (appr. 5 cm) screwed longitudinally to the rear carbon bridge to prevent the body from bending when quick refuelling in race situations

Best regards

Hello Xrax,

what I like:

- Easy motor assembling, no gear mesch every time
- durable plastic parts
- easy handling
- easy maintenance
- the bearings

what I dont like:

- THE FRONT ANTI-ROLL-BAR!!! PLEASE CHANGE IT, it is not easy to set up (tweak), binds the suspension, effecs the downstops in both ways
- side belt make the whole drivetrain have more resistance. Front and Back train as single runs very smoth
- better brake pads
- better brake system
- easier change of roll-center

Thank you!

Stephan

been thinking about this one for a while, and although I have not realy came up with anything earth shaking for changes, a few things do come to mind.

The way that the rear bulkheads are made, can you come up with a 3 peice -bulkhead to change the rear belt quicker, The way that the camber link bar is mounted to the accentric holders for the rear diff, do the same for the 2 speed shaft. 4 screws to lift the 2 speed shaft out would be cool.

Also, go to a different setup for the front mid shaft. Leave the pully out in the open and use 2 bearings between the side belt pully and the front belt pully....but don't make it part of the front left bulk head.

come up with a chassis stiffener for the left side of the car. I find the the car seems to have a "tweak" in it and all you have to do is "pop" the car back by pushing down on the front and rear of the car over an edge of a table. It is a very small amount of movement, but to cure this for my car, I cut a new top deck with smaller mounting holes. The screws are tight going into the top deck and prevents any shifting/movement when tightend down to the top-deck stands.

For the pully's, please mold them with holes on both sides, or come up with a metal side plate with holes to get rid of the dirt that gets built up in them. When running on a less then perfect track, dirt gets packed into them and wears the belt out too quickly.

With the radio box being a useful item to protect the radio gear, a shield to protect the gears would be a useful option when runnning on sandy tracks.

With the roll-bar/handle, I've been using 2 screws to keep the tie-strap for the fuel tank lid in place. Would be nice to have a nice slot to slide a tie-strap through, like what you have done with the rear shock tower.

Any way to lower the engine down? Dropping it down about 2mm where the bottom on the engine is down into the chassis. I know that this would move the mesh location of the gears, but lowering the CG might be helpful.

With the hard front bumper being more weight than the stock one, precut holes in areas to remove weight to make it the same as stock would be nice.

Thanks
James Burrows

one more small thing that I would like to see available as an option. Shims for the axle to take the play out of it. The axle stub seems to move about half a mm back and forth. I've made a few shims of my own, but a package of shims would be much better. If your not sure what I am talking about, push the axle stub in and out on the upright. I know that if you take too much slack out, the bearing will bind up, but if you can take even half of it out, I think it would be smoother overall.

I finish to mount my new Xray EC edition. At momment I agree with the option parts included, but:

-It hard to mount the outer nut of the pivot balls. take long time... Maybe with a double thread be more easy to screw it.
-turnbuckles, I prefer ones with a hole instead of a square for screw.
-A micro switch for the radio would be wellcome for the closed radio case users.
-Mounting hole for the micro switch in the optional carbon fiber receiver plate