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XRAY - Model racing cars • View topic - Help starting NT18T for first time.

XRAY - Model racing cars

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 Post subject: Help starting NT18T for first time.
PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 20:05:05 
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Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2006 00:08:18
Posts: 46
I am having trouble starting my lil truck for the first time, and I think I may have flooded it.

I fueld it up, tried to start it but obviously noticed no fuel was reaching the engine, so I kinda tilted it a little so fuel would enter the carb (yes I know), and it went in. I tried to start it, nothing, I could actually SMELL the nitro burning smell though, so I knew something was happening. I continued to try to start it, and I could hear some popping, and even saw the tires move a few times, but in the end I got nothing. It almost seems like the plug wasnt working, but the guage on it reads in the green.

Some things I noticed, on top of the glow plug I think fuel was comin out there ever so slightly, and by the fly wheel as well. Would that mean I flooded it?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 01:13:55 
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Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2005 22:09:47
Posts: 305
Location: Denmark, copenhagen
take out your glow plug and put it on the start box again until no fuel exept a fog comes out. then install your glow plug again.
make sure that your cab are set correctly to idle "around 2mm of opening"
if the engine dosen´t start, again try to lean the main neadel just a littel 1/4 turn down when the engine starts then return the neadel to factory settings, and heat cycel the engine like the manual tells you to.

the reason why it dosen´t start is probaly because that the engine are set to rich.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 03:55:29 
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Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 07:26:41
Posts: 87
Location: Perth, Western Australia
I find that taking the glow plug out completely isnt needed, especially with all the sand and such around my engine that can be sucked back in hehe. Just undo the plug 1-1.5 turns and spin the engine over for 3-4 seconds. You should now have fuel around the plug. Re-tighten, apply glow warmer and attempt to start it.

If your start is having trouble turning the engine over, push the car down a little but not to the point the flywheel is hitting the starter. Let it spool up to full speed then tap the car down against it fast. It only needs to turn the engine over 1-2 times for it to start with a good plug/heater. :)

Try kenns stuff as well :) good advice there!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 06:27:29 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 08:09:42
Posts: 358
Location: Las Vegas, NV
With my '57 Chevy & '32 Ford, w/dual/Quad's. They are easy to flood with fuel. When they get flooded, I put the accel to the floor and crank it till it starts. My Rc's I do the same, open the throttle wide open and crank for 4-5sec. That's enough, put the glow plug driver and it starts...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 06:34:19 
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Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2006 00:08:18
Posts: 46
I got it working! I just need to work on the idling screws, as I dont really know what it should do at idle or how loud. After a few runs the e clip came off the pinion and totally ground up the spur and pinion so I have to order more. :(


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 06:45:37 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 08:09:42
Posts: 358
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Bummer!!! How bad ?? really chewed up?? Just wondering. Idling I dont really know. The manual says not less tan 1mm air gap of the throttle. I have my idle to disengage the clutch. you want it to be disengage so the clutch doesnt overheat.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 07:43:07 
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Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2006 00:08:18
Posts: 46
Can you take a pic so I can get an idea? The pinion is kinda bent, it has roudned sides then sharp edges, the spur is rounded pretty much. No biggie!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 08:11:37 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 08:09:42
Posts: 358
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Kant & mark can help you with that. I'm more the NT18, not on18T. There is a slight difference, in Spur gear assembly. The clutch bell is the same though. I can't see what way to damage the Clutch bell, since its metal, the spur composite material. I could be wrong. I'll let Kant & mark help you.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 12:33:04 
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Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 07:26:41
Posts: 87
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Your engine should be able to stay running, but not much more. It should be very low revs, play with your idle scew until the engine dies and doesnt start up, then increase it in 1/2 turn amounts until the engine will start and idle for 30 seconds or more without you touching it.


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