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Must have racing hopups for M18? https://setup.teamxray.com/xsetup/legacy/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=4376 |
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Author: | BULL! [ Wed Oct 18, 2006 14:18:38 ] |
Post subject: | Must have racing hopups for M18? |
Author: | rugzilla [ Wed Oct 18, 2006 15:44:21 ] |
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Author: | BULL! [ Wed Oct 18, 2006 17:23:25 ] |
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Thanks Rugzilla, I will most likely stick with the stock motor classes until I get use to running touring cars. The bodies is there a big difference between the Mazda6 and the Stratus downforce and such or is it more of personal preference?? I have a Porsche 956 body that I got for a micro rs4 but never picked up a low profile Rx for it to make the body fit. so I was going to start with that one unless it is illegal for the class. With the graphite drive shaft I have read that some people had problems with the shaft cracking, have you had this problem or do you think it was more of bad materials/batch? Thanks again. BULL! |
Author: | Mini_Me [ Thu Oct 19, 2006 02:59:19 ] |
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with most of the hopups listed to make it easier. The 2.5 rear toe-in blocks ##383220 in the rear would be a good choice. If your a bit more technical, then go for the completely adjustable ones #383300. Depending on your driving style and the track size, you might look at the 6 degree hardened caster arms #382107 for the front. If its a carpet track, then you might want to pick up a few different compounds of the xray foams, (see top link). Oh rugzilla, the composite ball diffs hold up great with high powered motors. ![]() I still have my original hand made graphite shaft and one I made for my m18t. No cracks with brushless and lipo, though initially i did seal the ends with CA. |
Author: | rugzilla [ Thu Oct 19, 2006 13:52:21 ] |
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I've never had a drive shaft crack. I know some people had issues with some which were hollowed. Hollowed could be really good for stock 180 to decrease rotational mass - but no supply from stores - unless you get some for kite flying and shortened up yourself. I couldn't see loads of difference between the stratus and Mazda which would make one superior to the other. I just don't like the two bumps on the hood of the stratus.... ![]() Looking forward to this (other then waking up at 2:30am in the morning for the drive down...) |
Author: | Roelof [ Thu Oct 19, 2006 14:22:10 ] |
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Indeed a carbon hollof shaft will work fine with 180 motors but I never did see a difference with the standard aluminium shaft. Now I have a 4mm aluminium tube ready to make a shaft. Lets see if it is lighter and stronger. |
Author: | BULL! [ Thu Oct 19, 2006 17:12:09 ] |
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Just got the last issue of RC Car Action, this one was all about the minis and one of the project mods was a M18 the majority of it was standard stuff but the Rx they were using was from a battle robot supplier. they never got a close picture of it but the size was TINY!!! it fit between the LiPo and the battery post.. Also I guess X-ray is releasing a 370 sized motor wonder if a new ESC is on the way too?? Thanks everyone for the info. now I am at the mercy of UPS and the package tracker. my M18 should be here Monday. already got my sandpaper and jewelers files ready for the build.. |
Author: | BULL! [ Sat Oct 21, 2006 13:26:19 ] |
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Author: | Roelof [ Sat Oct 21, 2006 17:37:31 ] |
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Author: | BULL! [ Tue Oct 24, 2006 19:32:51 ] |
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Author: | Mini_Me [ Wed Oct 25, 2006 02:13:04 ] |
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Author: | kant76 [ Wed Oct 25, 2006 14:13:36 ] |
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q tip is the way to go, that way you also donĀ“t dammage your health with the poison ca glue. I always use the qtip, just prime it well b4 starting to apply it to the chassie other wise you end up wiith cotton treads on your chassie |
Author: | Mini_Me [ Wed Oct 25, 2006 22:00:02 ] |
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CA was used for emergency seal of wounds in Vietnam. No, Im serious! |
Author: | BULL! [ Fri Oct 27, 2006 16:18:50 ] |
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